Sunday, December 29, 2013

RIBBED KNIT SCARF PATTERN

Men can be SOOOO hard to stitch for!!!! I have two sons and other than simple (and novelty) beanies and afghans I come across very few patterns that they will actually welcome.  Crochet patterns tend to be more lacy and feminine, so when I learned to knit I had a goal of finding some masculine patterns that were manly man approved.....it's a tough search!!  LOL  A few weeks ago I sat down with yarn and needles and set to work perfecting the MAN's scarf! I sent pics to my younger son to get approval and this one won out.....other than he said it should be a much darker color....but since lighter colors photograph better I kept going in this color :D 

I am fairly new at writing knit patterns, so if you choose to knit this up please leave me a comment about your experience (good or bad) with my pattern.  It's super simple, only 4 rows repeated, so it's the perfect take a long project. 



***Feel free to make as many of these as you want for profit, but remember to give credit to me, Amy B Stitched, or link back to this page!!***

RIBBED KNIT SCARF


Materials:
6 oz worsted weight yarn
size 8 needles

Cast on 24 (pattern is worked in a multiple of 4's)
Row 1: [K1, P3] across.
Row 2: [K2, P2] across.
Row 3: [K3, P1] across.
Row 4: P across.

Repeat rows 1-4 until scarf measures 72" or desired length.  Bind off in pattern on row 1.
Weave in ends securely.


after photographing I realized this pic shows the finished end of the scarf.....so if you are looking at your scarf and you say "it doesn't quite look the same"......just turn it upside down :D

Sunday, December 15, 2013

SHELL STITCH BEANIE CROCHET PATTERN


The shell stitch beanie was designed as a special request to have a warmer hat that would compliment the Lacy Scarf. There are four sizes with the large pattern written first and changes for medium, small and x-small following.
SHELL STITCH BEANIE
You can give it a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here

MATERIALS:  

3 oz worsted weight yarn
Size G (4.00mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

 STITCHES & TERMS USED:
Ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
st (sts) - stitch (stitches)
fpdc - front post double crochet
bpdc - back post double crochet
fphdc - front post half double crochet
bphdc - back post half double crochet

GAUGEFirst two rows of pattern = 2 ½”

SIZES: measurements are for head circumference and length are actual finished measurements. Allow for 1-2” of stretch when choosing size (example: my head is 22” so I make the large size)

Large – 20” x 9”
Medium – 18” x 8”
Small - 14 ½”" x 6 ¼”
X-Small - 12" x 4 ¾”


 LARGE:
Rnd 1: Ch 4, dc 11 times in 4th ch from hook.  Sl st in beg ch 4 to join. (12)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (24)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, dc in next st.  [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around.  Sl st in top of first dc to join. (36)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, dc in next 2 sts. [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (48)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, dc in next 3 sts. [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (60)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, dc in next 4 sts. [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (72)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as join, dc in next 5 sts. [2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts] around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (84)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. [sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell), sk next 2 sts, sc in next st] around. Sl st in first st to join. (14 shells)
Rnd 9: ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. [sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, shell in next st] around. 2 dc in same st as beg ch and dc’s.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (14 shells)
Rnds 10-17: Repeat Rnds 8 and 9.
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in same st as join. [hdc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st] around.  Sl st in first sc to join. (84)
Rnd 19: Ch 2, dc in each st around. (84)
Rnds 20-21: Ch 1, work fpdc and bpdc alternating around.  Finish off. Weave in ends securely.  (84)

MEDIUM:
Rnds 1-6: Same as above.
Rnds 7-14: Repeat rnds 8 and 9. (12 shells)
Rnds 15-18: Repeat rnds 18-21.  (72)

SMALL:
Rnds 1-5: Same as above.
Rnds 6-11: Repeat rnds 8 and 9. (10 shells)
Rnd 12-13: Same as rnds 18 and 19. (60)
Rnds 14-15: Ch 1, work fphdc and bphdc alternating around. Finish off.

X-SMALL:
Rnds 1-4: Same as above.
Rnds 5-8: Repeat rnds 8 and 9.  (8 shells)
Rnds 9-10: Same as rnds 18 and 19. (48)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, work fphdc and bphdc alternating around. Finish off.


Sunday, December 8, 2013

CROCHETED LACY SCARF w/ written AND symbol patterns

So much cold weather across the nation (even down here in South Texas) has prompted me to get to work on some new scarves.  I actually designed this last year for my co-worker who can't read patterns but crochets the most AWESOME creations by just looking at samples!!  She really wanted to learn to read patterns, so I started by drawing it out in symbol form, then writing the written instructions so she would have two forms of the pattern right in front of her.  I'm not sure if it helped her or not. But I LOVED the pattern so much that I made many.....and now I am sharing it here for your own stitching pleasure :D 
The symbol pattern (which is a picture of the pattern I drew) is located at the bottom of the blog entry.
***Feel free to make as many of these as you want for profit, but remember to give credit to me, Amy B Stitched, or link back to this page!!***


 

LACY SCARF

Materials:
size G crochet hook
6-8 oz worsted weight yarn


Ch - 0  - chain
Dc - Ŧ - double crochet
Sk - skip
Sp - space
St - stitch

Ch 23.
Row 1: (dc, ch 2, dc) in 5th ch from hook, * sk next 3 ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk next 3 ch, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch.  Repeat from * across.  Dc in last ch.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. * 5 dc in ch 2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center st of 5 dc group.  Repeat from * across.  Dc in top of turning ch.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. * (dc, ch 2, dc) in center 5 dc group, 5 dc in next ch 2 sp.  Repeat from * across. Dc in top of turning ch. 
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until desired length is reached.


I made this scarf 66" long (as tall as I am), then I stitched the ends together to make an "infinity" scarf, which I triple wrapped around my neck for this pic.  It was so nice and warm.....but I was able to unwrap one time and drape around my neck when we went inside so I didn't get so warm.



I love working with charts......so much easier to look at a picture than to READ a long lengthy pattern.  I'm not really that "tech savvy" so I just drew it up the old fashioned way with pencil and paper.  It's not perfect.......but it's readable!! 




Thursday, December 5, 2013

CABLED FINGERLESS MITTEN PATTERN - 3 variations (stockinette, reverse stockinette, and moss st)


When I set out to design a new set of fingerless mittens I just couldn't make up my mind what background stitch to use.  So I wrote up the pattern for the three I liked the best!!!!  For each one you will need to knit the cuff first, then choose the body style and knit that portion.  To finish it off you will need to knit the top band portion of the pattern which is located at the VERY BOTTOM of the blog entry.  Since there is a design for the top of the hand you will also need to knit a right and left or the cable will end up on your palm. If you have any questions about the pattern or detect any errors please let me know in the comment section below.  ENJOY!!!

***Feel free to make as many of these as you want for profit, but remember to give credit to me, Amy B Stitched, or link back to this page!!***   




 Knit Cabled Fingerless Mitten

Measurement:
7 1/4" tall x 7" circumference

Materials needed:
size 8 knitting needles
cable needle
worsted weight yarn
size F crochet hook
darning needle

Knit and Crochet terms and abbreviations:
Cast on = CO
Knit = K
Purl = P
Slip = sl
Cable needle = cn
Single crochet = sc
Slip stitch = sl st
beginning = beg


Cuff: CO 30 (you will need at least an 8" tail for finishing)
Row 1: K, P across
Repeat row 1 until cuff measures 1 1/4" or desired length.


VARIATION # 1 STOCKINETTE BODY


Body (left):
Row 1: K7, P1, K8, P1, K13
Row 2: K1, P12, K1, P8, K1, P6, K1
Row 3: K7, P1, sl 4 sts onto cn and hold at back, K4, K4 from cn, P1, K13
Rows 4-10: repeat Rows 2 and 1.
Repeat Rows 3-10 until body measures 5 1/4" (6 1/2" from edge of cuff) or desired length.
Work Top Band according to instructions at bottom of pattern.

Body (right):
Row 1: K13, P1, K8, P1, K7
Row 2: K1, P6, K1, P8, K1, P12, K1
Row 3: K13, P1, sl 4 sts onto cn and hold at back, K4, K4 from cn, P1, K7.
Rows 4-10: repeat rows 2 & 1.
Repeat rows 3-10 until body measures 5 1/4" (6 1/4" from edge of cuff) or desired length.
Work Top Band according to instructions at bottom of pattern.


VARIATION #2 REVERSE STOCKINETTE BODY


Body (left):
Row 1: P8, K8, P14
Row 2: P1, K13, P8, K7, P1
Row 3: P8, sl 4 sts onto cn and hold at back, K4, K4 from cn, P14
Rows 4-10: repeat rows 2 & 1
Repeat rows 3-10 until body measures 5 1/4" (6 1/4" from edge of cuff) or desired length.
Work Top Band according to instructions at bottom of pattern.

Body (right):
Row 1: P14, K8, P8
Row 2: P1, K7, P8, K13, P1
Row 3: P14, sl 4 sts onto cn and hold at back, K4, K4 from cn, P8.
Rows 4-10: repeat rows 2 & 1
Repeat rows 3-10 until body measures 5 1/4" (6 1/4" from edge of cuff) or desired length.
Work Top Band according to instructions at bottom of pattern.


VARIATION #3 MOSS STITCH BODY


Body (left):
Row 1: (K, P) 8 sts, K8, (P, K) 14 sts.
Row 2: (K, P) 12 sts, K2, P8, K2, (P, K) 6 sts
Row 3: (K, P) 8 sts, sl 4 sts onto cn and hold at back, K4, K4 sts from cn, (P, K) 14 sts.
Rows 4-10: repeat rows 2 & 1.
Repeat rows 3-10 until body measures 5 1/4" (6 1/4" from edge of cuff) or desired length.
Work Top Band according to instructions at bottom of pattern.

Body (right):
Row 1: (K, P) 14 sts, K8, (P, K) 8 sts.
Row 2: (K, P) 6 sts, K2, P8, K2, (P, K) 12 sts.
Row 3: (K, P) 14 sts, sl 4 sts onto cn and hold at back, K4, K4 sts from cn, (P, K) 8 sts.
Rows 4-10: repeat rows 2 & 1.
Repeat rows 3-10 until body measures 5 1/4" (6 1/4" from edge of cuff) or desired length.
Work Top Band.
_______________________


Top Band:
K, P across. 2 rows.
Bind off loosely.  Do NOT Finish off.

Ch 1, sc evenly down the side of the panel.  Stop when you reach the bottom of the cuff, bring other edge of panel over and begin at the bottom of the cuff. Sc evenly up the edge of the panel.  Stop at the top edge of top band, sl st to beg sc.  Finish off leaving an 8" tail for sewing.

Side Seam: Closing the side seam from the top band using a darning needle, work at ladder stitch through back loops only, stitch down approximately 2", then reinforce that seam by going back up to top band and finish off.  It makes a nice flat and decorative joining seam. 
Repeat from the cuff edge stitching up approximately 2 1/4" and back down to cuff edge.  Finish off.








Monday, December 2, 2013

EIGHT POINT SNOWFLAKE

 

This year our Christmas will be a bit different.  Hubby and I sold off our house and most of our furniture, stored the rest, then set out to live in our 5th Wheel travel trailer.  Space is VERY limited.  We started looking at some small artificial trees.....and even toyed with the idea of getting a live potted tree that we could keep outside on nice days.  We are on the Coastal Bend in South Texas so nice days are aplenty!!!  But then some good friends gave us a small table top tree that solved our dilemma. Then I set to work making roll stitch snowflakes and tiny snowflakes.  But it just wasn't enough.  I needed something to top the little tree with.  That is when I got the idea for this Eight Point Snowflake.  It looks lovely with or without the faceted jewel in the center and made a perfect topper for my tiny tree!!!!

***Feel free to make as many of these as you want for profit, but remember to give credit to me, Amy B Stitched, or link back to this page!!***   



 

Give it a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here

Eight Point Snowflake

materials:
size 10 cotton thread
size 8 steel crochet hook
commercial fabric stiffener
waxed paper
piece of Styrofoam or cardboard
straight pins
1" round faceted jewel and hot glue gun (optional)

Round 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in first ch from hook.  Sl st in top of ch 4 to join. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st.  2 dc in each st around. Sl st in top of ch 3 to join. (24 dc)
Round 3: Ch 3, [dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in same st.  * Skip 2 sts, [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in next st, repeat from * around. Sl st in top of ch 3 to join. 
Round 4: Sl st to ch 2 sp. Ch 3, [dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in ch 2 sp, * ch 2, sl st in sp after 2 dc, ch 2, ** [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc]. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of ch 3 to join.
Round 5: Sl st to ch 2 sp.  Ch 3, [dc, ch 7, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (picot), ch 5, 2 dc] in ch 2 sp, * ch 3, sc in top of sl st form previous row, ch 3 **, [2 dc, ch 7, picot, ch 5, 2 dc]. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.  Finish off. 



Saturate completed snowflake in commercial fabric stiffener.  Gently squeeze out excess.  Pin snowflake to waxed paper covered Styrofoam, gently stretching points evenly.  Allow to dry completely.  Attach jewel if desired using hot glue gun. 





Our little Christmas tree for our 5th Wheel!!  I still need a few snowflakes more to fill it up the rest of the way.  I used the Eight Point Snowflake as the tree topper.....I Love the way it looks with the jewel reflecting the light. It looks more like a star than a snowflake this way!!