Tuesday, December 1, 2015

The Gentlemen's Bowtie FREE Knit Pattern

I have always struggled to find nice, trendy patterns for the grown men in my life.  So when I saw that one of my sons had begun to wear bowties with his dress clothes, I thought to myself  "I can make those!!"  They are a quick gift to make up and with the Holiday Season upon us it is the PERFECT time to make them up for gifts!!

The Gentlemen's Bowtie is knit in a tight linen stitch.  The finished fabric resembles a nice tweed.  And because of this NO BLOCKING is necessary!!  Isn’t that GREAT!?!?



Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!

This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B

THE GENTLEMEN'S BOWTIE

 Give it a <3 or add to your Ravelry queue here

SIZE:  4 ¼ inches x 1 ½ inches

MATERIALS:
·         Sock or fingering weight yarn 45-50 yds
·         Size 2 needles (2.75 mm)
·         Yarn needle
·         Hand sewing needle
·         Coordinating sewing thread
·         Small sew on snaps.

GAUGE:  11 sts = 1 inch, 16 rows = 1 inch

STITCHES AND TERMS USED:

·         CO – cast on
·         K – knit
·         P – purl
·         Wyif – with yarn in front
·         Wyib – with yarn in back


BOWTIE BODY:  CO 16
Row 1: K, s1 wyif. Repeat across. K last 2 sts.
Row 2: P, s1 wyib. Repeat across. P last 2 sts.
Repeat rows 1 & 2 until piece measures 9 inches. Bind off and leave a long end for sewing.
Sew short ends together. Secure. Center the seam and thread the tail through both thicknesses and pull tightly to gather. Secure. Set aside.
Sew short ends together. Secure. Center the seam.

On the front side, thread the tail through both thickness as shown in the picture above. 

Pull tight and secure with a knot.  

CENTER BAND:  CO 10
Row 1: K, s1 wyif. Repeat across. K last 2 sts.
Row 2: P, s1 wyib. Repeat across. P last 2 sts.
Repeat rows 1 & 2 until piece measures 1 ½  inches. Bind off and leave a long end for sewing.
Wrap around the center gathered portion of the bowtie body and stitch seam.  Secure the center band with a few small stitches to the body at the top and bottom edges of the bowtie, leaving the sides open so that the neck band can be passed through.  See picture below Neck Band.

NECK BAND:  CO 6
Row 1: (K, sl 1 wyif) twice. K last 2 sts.
Row 2: (P, sl 1 wyib) twice. P last 2 sts.
Repeat rows 1 & 2 until piece measures ½ inch longer than neck measurement. Bind off and weave in all ends. Follow the picture tutorial below for a final assembly.  

On the back side of the bowtie, slip a crochet hook under the center band and hook onto the end of the neck band.  Ensure the back side of the band is facing towards you and carefully pull the neck band through the center band, centering the neck band as shown in the picture below.

This is how it will look.  You may secure the neck band to the center band, but it is not necessary.  It should be a snug fit and will not slide much, if any.

Hand sew three sets of snaps spaced 1/4 inch apart to the ends of the neck band.  Make sure one end is sewn to the front side and the other end is sewn to the back side.  




A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B

Sunday, November 22, 2015

Boho Twist Crossbody Bag FREE crochet pattern

EVERYONE needs one of these cute little bags!!!  It is a simple construction and large enough to carry all of your essentials. Worked in the round with a bit of lacy openwork to show off bits of your zippered fabric lining, which I am going to show you how make with a picture tutorial!! 

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


BOHO TWIST CROSSBODY BAG
Give this pattern a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here

SIZE:  8 inches wide x 10 inches tall (excluding strap)

MATERIALS:
·         Aunt Lydias Crochet Cotton Thread/Fashion 3, Size 1, Super Fine, 150 yds each – 2 balls, 300 yds total. You can also use two strands of size 10 cotton held together and get the same results.
·         Size C (2.75 mm) crochet hook
·         One 9 inch all-purpose zipper
·         Two pieces of fabric measuring ½ inch larger (all the way around) than finished crocheted piece.  Approx. 9” x 11”
·         Coordinating Sewing thread, sewing machine (optional) and hand sewing needle.

GAUGE: 6 dc = 1 inch, 3 dc rows = 1 inch

STITCHES AND TERMS USED
·         Ch (chs) – chain (chains)
·         Hdc – half double crochet
·         St (sts) – stitch (stitches)
·         Sl st – slip stitch
·         Beg – beginning
·         BLO – back loop only
·         Trc – treble crochet
·         Tr double cross st – treble double cross stitch: skip 2 sts, trc in next two sts, working behind previous sts, trc in 2 skipped sts.
·         Rsc – reverse single crochet
·         Tr cross st – treble cross stitch: skip next st, trc next st, working behind previous st, trc in skipped st.

BAG
Rnd 1: Ch 45. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in next 41 chs.  5 hdc in last ch.  Working down opposite side of ch, hdc in 41 sts across.  3 hdc in last ch.  Sl st in top of beg ch to join.  (92)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st as join. 2 hdc in next st, hdc next 42 sts, 2 hdc in next 4 sts, hdc next 42 sts, 2 hdc next 2 sts. Sl st in top of beg ch 2 to join.  (100)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc next st, 2 hdc next st, hdc next 44 sts, 2 hdc next st, hdc next 5 sts, 2 hdc next st, hdc next 44 sts, 2 hdc next st, hdc last st. Hdc in same st as join.  Sl st in top of beg ch 2 to join.  (105)
Rnd 4: Work in BLO this round only. Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc to join.  (105)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Sl st in top of first hdc to join. (105)
Rnds 6-7: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Sl st in top of beg ch 2 to join.  (105)
Rnd 8: Ch 3, * work tr double cross st, dc next st. Repeat from * around.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rnds 9-25: Repeat Rnd 8 seventeen times.
Rnds 26-29: Ch 2, hdc around. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rnd 30: Ch 1, rsc around.  Sl st in first st to join.  Finish off.

STRAP
Leave a long tail at the beginning and end of your strap for sewing it to the bag.
Row 1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across.  (4)
Row 2-4: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (4)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn. Tr cross st, dc last st. (4)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc across.
Repeat rows 5 and 6 fifty five (55) more times (or to desired length).
Last 3 rows: repeat row 6.  Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Set aside strap and begin lining tutorial below.

Cut two pieces of fabric 1/2 inch larger than the finished crochet piece.

Fold over and press 1/2" along the top edge of the fabric.


Pin the zipper to the inside of one lining piece with the zipper pull facing you and the top edge of the zipper (which looks like the bottom edge in this picture) even with the edge of the lining.  It looks backwards, but I promise it is not.

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, or carefully by hand, stitch the first side of the zipper to the fabric lining.  Repeat with the other side.

After your zipper has been stitched in it will look like this.  

And this is how it should look on the inside of the lining.

Pin the edges of the lining together like so.

Stitch a half inch seam allowance, then trim the edges down.

You will not be able to stitch all the way to the zipper, that is okay.

Zig Zag around the cut edges to prevent fraying.  This is not absolutely necessary, but I did this because the contrast between my lining and the crochet piece is very stark and any fraying seemed to peek out between the crochet stitches.

Insert the lining into the crocheted piece, line up the end of the zipper with the side of the bag and pin in place.

Do the same thing with the other end of the zipper.  This will hold the lining in place while you get the rest of it pinned.

Pin the lining every 1-1/2 inches to hold secure.

Make sure that your zipper peeks out above the crochet work.

Thread a hand sewing needle with coordinating thread and stitch the bag to the zipper.  Do not go all the way through to the lining, or your stitches will show.  Go slowly and try to just grab the zipper fabric with the needle.

Looks pretty nice, huh??

Using the long tails on the ends of the strap, stitch the strap to the last 4 rows before the rsc row.  

VOILA!!!!  It is finished!!


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B

Monday, November 9, 2015

Peppermint Stripes Winter Set FREECrochet Pattern

I designed this hat one day MANY years ago for a friend who was an avid snow skier!!  She kept talking about all of the crazy hats that people wear on the slopes and that they help the others in your party to find you.  You can see my original design here. It's not the original hat that I had made her....I think the colors were much more random. Anyhoo.....later on in time our Youth Pastors wife asked me if I could make a scarf and hat set for them to use in a Christmas drama.  She wanted it to be Candy Cane Striped if possible. So this set was born....the stripe sequence was probably different....I have not always been good at taking pictures of my creations so I just went with my instincts for this set and I have to say I am very pleased!!

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  Thank You!!! Amy B


Peppermint Stripes Winter Set
Give it a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here
Materials:
  • Size I crochet hook (5.5mm)
  • Worsted weight yarn, size 4, medium. You will need one 7 ounce skein of Red and one 7 oz skein of white.  You will be able to make both the hat AND the scarf and still have left over yarn.
  • yarn needle
Size: Average Adult size with change to make average child size. 

Gauge: 3 dc rows = 2 inches,  6 dc = 2 inches

Notes:

  • Chain 3 at beginning of each row counts as a stitch.
  • Color changes are done every row. One row/round Red, One row/round white.  For the HAT, DO NOT CUT after each round, but carry the yarn on the inside of the hat and work the extra color into your beginning chain of each round to keep it tidy.  For the SCARF, you will cut the yarn on each row, leaving a 4" tail on each end to work into the fringe.


Stitches and Terms used:
  • ch - chain
  • dc - double crochet
  • sl st - slip stitch
  • beg - beginning.
  • st (sts) - stitch (stitches)
  • fpdc - front post double crochet
  • sc - single crochet
  • sdc - standing double crochet (video at the bottom of the page)
  • ssc - standing single crochet (I do not have a video for this...but if you look at the one for the sdc it is the same concept)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR HAT  

Ch 3, join to form ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, 7 dc in ring.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each stitch around.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (8 sts)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st as beg ch 3, dc in each st around.   Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (9 sts)
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in each st around.   Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (9 sts)
Rounds 5 - 12: Repeat rows 3 and 4. (you should have 13 sts by the end of Round 11)
Rounds 13 - 23: Ch 3, dc in same st as beg ch 3, dc in each st around.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (increases 1 st each row, 24 sts by end of Round 23)
Round 24: Ch 3. [2 dc in next st *, dc in next st] around ending at *.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (36 sts)
Round 25: Ch 3, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around. Dc in last st.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (48 sts) Stop here and skip to Round 27 if you want to make a smaller hat for a child.
Round 26: Ch 3, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around. Dc in last 2 sts.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (60 sts)
Rounds 27-35: Ch 3, dc in each st around.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. Stop after Round 31 and skip to Round 36 for the child size.
Round 36: Ch 1, sc.  [fpdc around next st, sc in next st] around.  Sl st in top of beg ch 2 to join.
Round 37: Ch 1, sc in each st around.  Sl st in top of beg sc to join.
Round 38: Sl st loosely in each st around.  Finish off.

Pom Pom Chain:  Ch 12, sl st in round 1 of hat, sl st in each ch to beginning.  Cut and tie off.  Leave 4-6 inches of yarn at the beginning and end of the chain to attach pom pom to.

Pom Pom:  Using a deck of cards or something of similar size, wrap yarn around until approximately 2" wide and 1/2" thick. Using the pieces of yarn at the ends of the Pom Pom chain, thread these through the center of the wrapped yarn and tie a tight knot.  Remove from wrapped yarn from deck and you will have what resembles a circle.  Flatten yarn circle in half with tied portion in middle and tie again with a secure knot.  Cut folded ends and fluff yarn.  Trim to desired shape.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SCARF
The scarf is worked all on one side, no turning your work. You will cut your yarn at the end of the row and reattach at the beginning for the next row leaving a 4 to 6 inch tail at each end.  These tails will not be woven in, instead they are incorporated into the fringe.....unless you don't want fringe then you can just weave away!!! Again, I change colors EVERY row....except the starting chain and row 1 are the only exceptions which I do both the same color.  

Chain 200 (I started with white). Cut yarn at end of chain, leaving a 4 to 6 inch tail.
Row 1: (same color as beginning chain) Working in the back ridge of the chain, attach yarn in the first ch with a ssc, sc across to the end.  Working in the back ridge gives you a nice finished edge....be sure to do this.  
Row 2 and 3: Attach yarn with a sdc in the first st, dc across to the end.
Row 4-12: Repeat rows 1-3.
Row 13: Repeat row 1.

FRINGE: Cut 8-12 inch lengths of yarn.  I take 4 at a time and attach with a half hitch knot across the end of the scarf.

Standing Double Crochet Video



A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B

Sunday, November 8, 2015

A Tale of New Yarn!!! And what to do with HANKS of Yarn!

A little over three years ago I was given the opportunity to teach my oldest sons new Bride how to crochet!  It was such a joy to share something so much a part of my life (other than my son that she married!! lol)  She took to it SO quickly and now puts up with my CONSTANT text messages containing pictures and links to new patterns and pretty yarn that is on sale!!! 

Just last week we were discussing a new pattern I had come across.....I can't tell you what it is in this entry because we are both working on Christmas gifts using said pattern, but if you private message me I might be convinced to share :D......and she was eagerly awaiting the arrival of her yarn so she could start working said pattern. A few days later I received the below picture

  HER YARN HAD ARRIVED....and she was sooooooo excited!!!  You can just see it on her face!!  Such a wonderful fiber and beautiful color she had chosen.  I told her she would need to utilize her newly acquired ball winder to make it into nice and tidy yarn cakes. She was prepared......so she thought!!  A few days later I was talking to my son on the phone and he told me she was having a little trouble with the yarn....it was, as she put it, "the knot from hell" lol  
 If you have ever been in her shoes, I am sure you understand her frustration.  I had not even considered that she had never rolled up yarn from a hank.........MY BAD!!!
This was the picture she sent to show me how far she had come after THREE HOURS of detangling! 
  I knew I needed to intervene with some sort of assistance or she may just give up on her project all together.  So I took a series of pictures.....which I will share at the bottom of the page for any of you who might be wondering, as the title of this post suggests, "What to do with Hanks of Fiber"
Soon I received this picture.  Her hard work had paid off and she had her first yarn cake completed!!!
Right now is the time to CHEER!!!!  WAY TO GO EMILY!!!!!!!

What to do with Hanks of Yarn
When you first take out your hank of yarn it will look something like this. It is a large loop of yarn that has been twisted onto itself and then tucked neatly together.

Carefully untwist the hank and lay it on a flat surface in a big loop like this.

The hank will be tied in at least two places like the picture above.  CAREFULLY remove this tie.  It is usually a fiber different than the yarn it is containing. Try to slip it out without disturbing the flow of the yarn.

If you do not have a swift....you will need someone to hold your yarn like this as you wind.  If you are not lucky enough to have a second set of hands...or you just prefer to do it yourself you can drape it over your bent knees, removing just a few rounds of yarn at a time, rolling it up before removing any more.  This will help you keep from having the "knot from hell".

I hope that you have found this post entertaining and informative.  If you can relate I would love to hear about your "knot from hell" experiences in the comments section.  Or maybe you just want to offer a word of encouragement to my WONDERFUL daughter in law.  We'd love to hear from you!!

Blessings!!
Amy and Emily B

Tuesday, October 27, 2015

This Stitcher's Gotta Eat!!! Cheater Enchiladas Recipe

Okay.....so I know I'm not the only one out there that gets soooo engrossed in a project that I TOTALLY forget that I have a family to feed....RIGHT?!?!?!  And I can only get away with "sandwich night" every once in a while.  It's actually a bit easier now that hubby and I are Empty Nesters....but still....we need to eat!!!!

So the other day I found myself in the predicament once again.  It was late and hubby and I were both pretty hungry.  After scouring through the fridge, freezer and the cupboard I came up with a decision to improvise.

THREE INGREDIENTS is all it took for my CHEATER ENCHILADAS!!!

Frozen Beef Taquitos
Your favorite salsa
shredded CHEESE!!!

 I mean....what is an enchilada except some sort of tortilla, sauce and cheese, right???

The first ones I made in the electric skillet....added a little oil to the bottom to prevent sticking.  Made one layer of taquitos (I think I used 10), Covered it with Salsa. Covered that with cheese.  Put the lid on and cooked on Med-High until cheese was melted and it was heated through.  The taquitos turned out pretty crunchy  on the bottom this way....but I kind of liked them.  If you want to avoid crunchy just put some salsa on the bottom of the skillet before putting the taquitos down.

please excuse the sight of the well used skillet!!!  It sure does help to keep the house from heating up!!!

You can also make them in the microwave.  Just put your desired number of taquitos on a microwave safe plate or dish, Cover with Salsa and Cheese.  Heat until bubbly. (my microwave took only 2 minutes to make this plate of two!!)



Hubby was pleasantly surprised by how good they tasted!!  Paired with a little salad or your favorite "Mexican" side dish and you have a super quick and tasty meal!!

Hope this helps you out when you are in a pinch to fix something quick to feed yourself or your family!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B

Saturday, October 24, 2015

Mermaid Tail Cocoon FREE Crochet Pattern

Earlier this year I had a request from a good friend for a Mermaid Tail Blanket.  Well I looked at all of the patterns out there and just wasn't "feeling it".  So in my usual fashion I picked up my hook and yarn and set to design the one in my head.  This did not happen quickly as I was working a full time job and other life continued to happen.  But after a few months of trial and error I FINALLY came up with something I was proud of!!!  And I would like to share it here with you all for FREE!!!  I have heard these might be a great thing to stitch up for a little girl who is battling an illness.  A fun blanket to help through a hard time maybe!

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  Thank You!!! Amy B

MERMAID TAIL COCOON
Give it a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here

SIZE: 42 (44, 46) inches long (excluding fin) x 20 inches across. Childs Small (Medium, Large)

MATERIALS:
•             Size I (5.50mm) crochet hook
•             Worsted Weight yarn, MC “I love this yarn” Grape 16-20 oz, CC “I love this yarn” Pink 4.5 oz
•             Yarn needle

NOTES AND SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
*All increases are done at the seam in the back.  This will cause the back to measure taller than the front.  This is okay.  Most human bodies are made with a little more fullness in the back side and this will help the cocoon to ride evenly across the back. 
*There are several special stitches used.  The instructions for each stitch are listed below with their abbreviations. 
*Do NOT turn at the end of the row unless specifically told in the instructions.
*There are 3 sizes included.  The only difference is the length of the body.
*[ ] brackets: instructions in the brackets are a sequence of stitches to be repeated.
*( ) parenthesis: instructions in parenthesis are stitches to be placed in one single stitch.
*3 dc BLO and 5 dc BLO are referred to as “shells” in the end of row stitch count.

GAUGE: first two rows of pattern = 3 inches measured across center (see image 1 below)
  
IMAGE 1

STITCHES AND TERMS USED:
·         Ch – chain
·         Dc – double crochet
·         Sl st – slip stitch
·         Beg – beginning
·         St (sts) – stitch (stitches)
·         BLO – back loop only
·         Sc – single crochet
·         Sdc – standing double crochet   
·         Sk – skip
·         Fpdc – front post double crochet: yo, insert hook from the front, around the post, coming out again at the front, yo, draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops) twice.
·         Bpdc – back post double crochet: yo, insert hook from the back, around the post, coming out again at the back, you draw up a loop, (yo draw through 2 loops) twice.
·         Fp-bp dc dec – front post back post double crochet decrease: yo, insert hook from the front, around the post, coming out again at the front, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook from the back of the next st, around the post, coming out again at the back, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through 3 loops .
·         Bp-fp dc dec – back post front post double crochet decrease: Yo, insert hook from the back, around the post, coming out again at the front, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo,  insert hook from the front of the next st, around the post, coming out again at the back, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through 3 loops.
·         Sc cl – single crochet cluster: (insert hook and draw up a loop) 4 times, yo, draw through all loops on hook ]


BODY:  With MC,
Rnd 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook. Sl st in top of beg ch 4 to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, 3 dc next st BLO. * [Sc next st, 3 dc BLO next st] repeat from * around. Sl st in 1st sc to join. (6 shells)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, * sk next st, sc next st, sk next st **, 3 dc BLO next st. Repeat from * around, end at **. Dc in same st as join.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (6 shells)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, * sk 1 st, 5 dc BLO next st, sk 1 st, sc next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st in first sc to join. (6 shells)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, * sk 2 sts, sc next st, sk 2 sts, ** 5 dc BLO next st. Repeat from * around, end at **. 2 dc in same st as join. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (6 shells)
Rnd 6 INCREASE ROUND:  Ch 3, 2 dc in same as join, sc next st, sk 1 st, * 5 dc BLO next st, sk 2 sts, sc next st, sk 2 sts. Repeat from * around to last 2 sts. Sk 1 st, sc last st, 2 dc in same st as join. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (7 shells)
Rnd 7: Repeat Rnd 6 INCREASE ROUND. (8 shells)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc same as join. * sk 2 sts, 5 dc BLO next st, sk 2 sts, sc next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st in top of 1st sc to join.  (8 shells)
Rnd 9-28: Repeat Rnds 5 through 8. (18 shells by end of row 28)
Rnd 29-37: Repeat Rnds 5, 6 and 8. (21 shells by end of row 37)
NOTE: at the end of round 37 the piece will NOT measure 20 inches across. But the piece will continue to grow to the correct width even though you will not be doing any more increase rounds after this point....it's sort of like magic!!! lol
Rnd 38: Repeat Rnds 5 and 8 until piece measures 39 (41, 43) inches at the front center, ending with row 8. (21 shells)

WAIST BAND: With CC
Rnd 1: Attach contrast color in last st with a standing dc (sdc), dc next st, hdc next st, sc next st. Work one st in each st of previous rnd, * [hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc] repeat from * around. Sl st in top of sdc to join. (126)
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st). * [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] repeat from * around.  St st in top of first st to join.
Repeat Rnd 2 six more times. Finish off.

TAIL FIN:  With CC.  Beg ch 1 does not count as a st for all of tail fin. Have Body face down, with seam centered before beginning tail fin.
Row 1: Using image 2 as a guide, join with a sl st, 12 sc across base of tail.
  
IMAGE 2

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Dc 1st st, dc next 4 sts, (2 dc next st) 2 times, dc next 4 sts, 2 dc last st. (16)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 4 times, hdc in sp before next st, [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 4 times.  (17)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. * [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 4 times **. (fpdc, bpdc) next st. Repeat from * to ** once.  (18)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. * [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 4 times **. (fpdc, bpdc) next st 2 times. Repeat from * to ** once.  (20)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. * [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 4 times **. (fpdc, bpdc) next st 4 times. Repeat from * to ** once.  (24)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. * [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 5 times **. (fpdc, bpdc) next st 4 times. Repeat from * to ** once.  (28)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn.  [fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 6 times. Fp-bp dc dec over next 2 sts. Leave remaining sts unworked.  (13)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Bp-fp dc dec over next 2 sts. [Bpdc next st, fpdc next st] across.  Bpdc last st. (12)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. [Fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 5 times.  Fp-bp dc dec over next 2 sts.  (11)
Row 11: Repeat row 9.  (10)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. [Fpdc next st, bpdc next st] 4 times. Fp-bp dc dec over next 2 sts.  (9)
Row 13: Repeat row 9.  (8)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Fp-bp dc dec across (4 times).  (4)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn. Sc cl across 4 sts. Finish off. 
For second side of fin attach yarn at end of row with a sl st, using image 3 as a guide.  Work rows 8-15 the same as the first side of fin. 
  
IMAGE 3



STARFISH FRIEND:
For the starfish you will need a small amount of contrasting yarn and a size G (4.00) crochet hook.

Rnd 1: Ch 4, dc in 4th ch from hook.  (ch 1, 2 dc) 4 times in same sp. Ch 1, sl st in top of beg ch 4 to join. (10 dc)
Rnd 2: Sl st to ch 1 sp. * Ch 13, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc next 2 sts, hdc next 3 sts, dc next 4 sts, trc next 2 sts, sl st in next ch 1 sp. Repeat from * around.  Finish off, leaving a very long tail for sewing to the cocoon.


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Blessings!!!
Amy B