Thursday, August 11, 2016

Hopeful Hearts FREE symbol crochet pattern

Hopeful Hearts 

By Amy B Stitched          

The Hopeful Hearts design was inspired by a family friend named Heather who had recently undergone heart transplant surgery.  There are SO many people affected by this type of surgery and such a vast support system is needed to get through it.  That’s why I put so many hearts into this design.  From the family of the donor making such a life giving choice, to the family of the recipient, hopeful for more time with their loved one. You also have the surgical teams on both sides, doctors and nursing staff to see you through all of the technical stuff. You have friends who provide meals, transportation, funds and a shoulder when you need it.  So many are affected!! So many people LOVE so deeply that they fight along side you.  So Heather…..this is for you…..and for all the others out there who are hopeful for many more tomorrows. 

If you are interested in learning more about being an organ donor check out these links below that Heather shared with me.

http://www.organdonor.gov/
https://www.unos.org/donation/facts/

Hopeful Hearts pdf pattern click here  at this time only the symbol version of the pattern is available.  The written pattern is in the works and will be completed once my day job slows down lol
ERRATA: the symbol pattern has been corrected to reflect proper placement of decrease stitches on the top row of the hearts. 


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free sell completed items for profit, but please consider making one or more to donate to a local charity. 

Thank You!!! Amy B

Materials for lightweight scarf pictured above on the right:
•             Artiste 100% Acrylic Crochet Thread, 370 yards, #5 crochet thread (purchased at Hobby Lobby)
•             Size 5/1.90mm steel crochet hook

this is Heather modeling her shawl
Materials for Shawl pictured at left:
•             Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour, color: Red Stone  (size 2, Fine yarn,  1.75 oz, 202 yards each) you will need 5 skeins approx 1010 yards.  (purchased at JOANN’s)
•             Size E/4-3.50mm crochet hook

Gauge: not important

Stitches/Terms used: 
•             Ch = chain
•             Sk = skip
•             Dc = double crochet
•             Sp (sps) = space(s)
•             Dc2tog = double crochet 2 together



This is Heather's favorite Bible verse.





Tuesday, April 19, 2016

This Stitcher's Gotta Eat!!!! PURPLE Cauliflower Pizza Crust Recipe

Sorry I haven't been around with any new Stitching patterns lately.  I DO have some in the works....but the day job has kept me really busy.  Stay tuned and I will be posting a very special pattern within the next month.  

This week I am back home visiting my Moma.  When we visit, we always spend a lot of time in the kitchen coming up with some new and interesting things to eat. 

 Last week she had gotten a head of Purple Cauliflower in her Bountiful Baskets contribution and had no idea what to do with it.  So of course we Googled it and found out that it tastes just like regular cauliflower with some subtle differences.  We had both heard of the trend of making pizza crust with cauliflower and decided to give it a go with the purple one!!  I looked at quite a few recipes and then went to the cupboard and put together my own recipe using the ingredients we had on hand.  I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as we enjoyed consuming it!!!  And while it may seem like a lot of work, it really didn't seem to take any more time than making a traditional bread dough crust from scratch.

PURPLE CAULIFLOWER PIZZA CRUST

1/2 head cauliflower, coarsely chopped (any color of of cauliflower will work)
1/2 cup shredded Mozzarella cheese
1/4 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
1 tsp Italian seasoning 
1 egg
1 tsp chopped garlic
salt and pepper to taste

*Finely chop/shred cauliflower.

*Steam until tender (I put mine in a large glass measuring cup, rinsed and drained it, covered it with some press and seal. Then I microwaved it for 6 minutes). Allow to cool (I find it helps to transfer to a different bowl that is not hot from being cooked in and stir occasionally to release the steam)


*After the cauliflower is cooled you need to squeeze out all of the excess water.  I did this by placing it in a cloth napkin and squeezing it over a bowl.  It didn't feel very wet....but I got a LOT of purple water out of it!!  You may be tempted to use paper towels.  They will work, but you will go through a lot of them before you are done.  You also may end up with bits of paper towel in your cauliflower.  So I chose to use the cloth napkin instead.  


*Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F

*Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, oil or silicone mat.  I used oil.....my crust stuck.  I was able to get it unstuck mostly before I added the toppings and baked it, but lost some of the crunchiness on the bottom. The second one I made I used parchment and it worked out beautifully.  I was able to pick the cooled crust up with my hands and move it to another pan.  

*Once the drained cauliflower is completely cooled, stir in the remaining ingredients until evenly incorporated.


*Pour onto your prepared baking sheet; press and shape into your preferred pizza crust shape.


*Bake in the preheated oven until lightly browned, about 15 minutes.  Remove from oven and cool for 5 minutes before adding the toppings.

*Dress your pizza as desired.  I suggest adding cheese first, then your sauce. Top that with fresh veggies or meat, followed by seasonings and more cheese.  Then bake for 7 minutes more.  





DELISH!!!!!


The next day we made this recipe using regular ole white cauliflower.  We divided the crust into two and made individual sized rectangle pizzas. We made two batches so that we could put the pre-baked crusts into the freezer to be pulled out at a later time.  We don't know how the freezing process will affect these....stay tuned.  I will try to put an update in the comment section, so if you subscribe to the comments it will be emailed right to you.




Thanks for stopping by!!!
Amy B






Monday, February 22, 2016

TOASTY TOES Basic Felted Crocheted Slippers FREE Pattern

In December I took a trip to Bisbee, AZ, to visit my son, his lovely wife, and my grandson.  What a BEAUTIFUL area to visit!  The people, the shopping, the countryside!!  It was all so wonderful!!

Me and my Dear Hubby posing for a picture at scenic lookout over Old Bisbee.




I had several opportunities to peruse the stores in Old Bisbee.  I was DELIGHTED to find that there was a Fiber Store located in the basement of the historic Bisbee Community Y just up the street from the Copper Queen Hotel.  There were many completed hand made items for sale, as well as a selection of fiber.  I couldn't help myself and purchased two skeins of Bulky Weight yarn from a local Ranch, the Sky Island Brand/47 Ranch located north of Bisbee in the Mule Mountains, Sky Island Girls has a shop on Etsy  (the girls are the sheep) and is currently working on getting a facebook page set up as well.  There were two colors available, and of course I could not make up my mind.  The Owner, Deb Moroney, told me that she has will have all 5 natural colors in stock by mid February.

Before I left the Fiber Store I had already decided that I was going to design a pair of felted slippers.  Within a week I had two pair made (one for me and one for my dear daughter in law).  Each pair takes less than one skein of yarn and if you need the smallest size, you can eke out TWO pair from one skein!! WOOHOOO!!!

NOTE:  This wool is very unique.  I did try duplicating the slippers in another brand of bulky yarn and it did not work up the same size. But no worries here!  Sky Island Girls Yarn ROCKS!!!!



Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B


TOASTY TOES

BASIC FELTED CROCHET SLIPPERS


Give it a <3 or add to your Ravelry queue here

Materials: 
·         Sky Island Girls 100% Navaja-Churro Wool Yarn, Chunky 150 yds, 8 oz. (S: 72 yds, M: 78 yds, L: 90 yds, XL: 96 yds)
·         Size N crochet hook
·         Large eyed blunt yarn  needle
·         Dish soap and hot water for felting

Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large (approx. womens sizes 5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11)
·         Approximate FINISHED sole measurements will depend on your felting: 9 inches (9 ½, 10, 10 ½ )

Gauge: I have used pre-felted measurements as these work up quickly and I do not want to waste my wool doing a gauge swatch.  Measurements are with slipper laying on its side flat and will be listed below in this order S, (M, L, X-Large)
·         From Toe to Heel:  10 inches, ( 10 ½, 11, 11 ½ )                   
·         Instep to Sole:  4 ½ inches, (4 ½, 5, 5)     
·         Ankle edge to Sole:  3 ¾ inches, (3 ¾, 4, 4)

* Instructions are for S with changes for M, L, and XL in parenthesis
**NOTE: chains at beginning of the round/row do NOT count as a stitch

STITCHES AND TERMS USED:
·         Ch – chain
·         Hdc – half double crochet
·         Sl st – slip stitch
·         St – stitch
·         Sc – single crochet

Rnd 1: Ch 3, hdc 8 times in 3rd ch from hook.  Sl St in top of 1st hdc to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around. Sl st in first hdc to join.  (16)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, [2 hdc in next st, hdc next 7 (7, 3, 3) sts] 2 (2, 4, 4) times. Sl st in first hdc to join.  (18, 18, 20, 20)
Small and Medium Rnd 4-7: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Sl st in first hdc to join.  (18)
Row 8: Medium ONLY will turn at the beginning of this round, Small will not turn. Ch 1, hdc in next 13 sts.
Row 9-14(15): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across. (13)
Large and X-Large Rnd 4-8: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Sl st in first hdc to join.  (20)
Row 9: Large ONLY will turn at the beginning of this round, X-Large will not turn. Ch 1, hdc in next 14 sts.
Row 10-16 (17): Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across. (14)

EDGE:
Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Working down the side of the rows, sc 7 (8, 9, 10) evenly. Sc across the instep 5 (5, 6, 6) sts. Working down the other side rows, sc 7 (8, 9, 10) evenly. Sl st in the first sc to join.  (This will leave an opening in the heel that will be closed up after the next rnd). (19, 21, 24, 26)
Next Rnd: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st in 1st sc.  Cut, leaving a long tail for sewing heel end closed.

FINISH: Thread tail onto large eyed blunt needle.  Turn heel inside out and whip stitch the opening closed. Weave the tail back through the stitches, pulling slightly to pull the heel upwards, then weave the tail back through the stitches again, securing the shape of the heel.

FELTING: there are many ways to felt your finished slippers.  I prefer to hand felt my items, that way I can easily check the progress and stop when the appropriate size is reached.  Below is a link for instructions if you are unfamiliar with this process. 


the stitch definition did not disappear on this pair of slippers, but they are still very nice and cozy!!


Monday, February 1, 2016

Granny's Reflecting Heart FREE crochet pattern


Valentines Day is quickly approaching, but you will have PLENTY of time to work up a handful of these unique beauties!! 

Granny's Reflecting Heart is a simple thread crochet heart wrapped around a Glass Gem.  The glass gem reflects the suns rays and adds weight to your crocheted piece. It is a joy to behold!!  

 I originally published the Granny's Heart and Headband pattern  in January of 2014.  I was playing around with that pattern the other day and made it up with thread, a few extra rows of crochet and wrapped it around a Glass Gem to make these lovely sun catchers.  

NOTE:  I like to use the Perle Cotton size 8 because it comes in such an abundance of colors, but size 20 thread will also work up with minimal changes.  And since the Glass Gems are NOT exact sizing, you might have to experiment with your last round or two of crochet to make the fit just right.  Just make sure to not go smaller than 1-1/4 inch unless you are planning to go down to a size 30 or smaller thread!!


Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com 
 Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B


Granny’s Reflecting Heart
give this pattern a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here.

Materials: Perle Cotton size 8 (size 20 thread will also work), size 9 (1.15mm) crochet hook, blunt large eyed needle, Glass gem approx. 1-1/4 inch or larger.

Finished size: 1-1/4 inch

Gauge: not important, but your first two rounds of crochet should not be as large as your glass gem.

Ch 4
Rnd 1: Working all stitches in the 4th ch from hook, [2 dc, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 2) 2 times, sl st, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2]. Sl st in top of beg ch to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as stitch), dc in 1st 3 sts, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch 2 sp. Dc in next 3 sts. 3 dc in ch 2 sp, 2 dc in next 2 sts, (dc, hdc) in next st, sc in next ch sp, sl st in sl st of previous rnd, sc in next ch sp, (hdc, dc) in next st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in ch 2 sp, sl st in top of 1st dc to join.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join.  Ch 5, sk 2 sts, sc next st, ch 5, sk 2 sts, (sc, ch 5, sc) next ch sp. (Ch 5, sk 2 sts, sc next st) 5 times. Ch 5, skip next 3 sts, sc next st, (ch 5, sk next 2 sts, sc next st) 2 times. Ch 2, dc in 1st st to join. 
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in sp below join.  (Ch 5, sc in next sp) around. Ch 2, dc in first sc to join. 
Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 4. Finish off leaving a 12” tail for sewing, **unless your stone is larger or you are using size 20 thread or smaller, then continue in same pattern until large enough OR make your ch 5 into a ch 6 instead.**

FINISHING: Weave tail through chain spaces, insert stone into the back side of the crocheted piece.  Pull the tail tight to close the crocheted piece around the stone.  Weave tail securely through finished work.




Hanger:  Make a chain of 90 (more or less to your liking) and thread it through the top of the piece. Tie an overhand knot to secure it in place. Trim ends. 

Thursday, January 28, 2016

Bowl Cozy/Hot Pad FREE Crochet Pattern

Several months ago a friend had posted pictures of some bowl hot pads she had sewn as gifts for Christmas.  I really liked the idea of them, but living in a small space that does not afford leaving my sewing space set up I decided to design a crochet pattern for them instead.  My first one was a gift for my Daddy for Christmas, along with some other hot pads and dish cloths.  He sent me a picture as soon as he opened the package!!  With a little more work on the pattern I am finally ready to publish it here!!




This pattern is GREAT for holding your hot bowl of soup OR cold bowl of ice cream!!  It can also go in the microwave while re-heating items in your bowl and the corners can be used for carrying.  Be careful to NOT get your hot pad wet before putting it in the microwave.  This can cause serious burns!! 

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com 
 Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B
Bowl Cozy/Hot Pad
Give it a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here

Materials: size F (3.75 mm) crochet hook, Worsted Weight (medium, 4) Cotton Yarn 120 yards (Peaches and Cream, Peace and Bright Chartreuse, used for sample) , Yarn needle.

Size: fits a 6 inch bowl 
·         Base: 5 inches, measured from increases across.
·         Finished Sides Height: 3 inches
·         Edges: 7 inches x 4 sides

Gauge:  4 sc = 1 inch, 5 sc rows = 1 inch

Stitches and Terms Used:
·         Ch – chain
·         Sc – single crochet
·         St(s) – stitch(es)
·         Sl st – slip stitch

* NOTE: This pattern is worked up tightly so that it holds shape around the bowl. Not all worsted weight cotton's are equal.  Some work up much smaller, so be sure to check your gauge to ensure a proper fit.

BASE: make 2, DO NOT finish off after the 2nd one. 
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. DO NOT JOIN. Place marker in last st and work in continuous rounds.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (sc next st, 2 sc next st) around. (18)
Rnd 4: (sc next 2 sts, 2 sc next st) around. (24)
Rnd 5: (sc next 3 sts, 2 sc next st) around. (30)
Rnd 6: (sc next 4 sts, 2 sc next st) around. (36)
Rnd 7: (sc next 5 sts, 2 sc next st) around. (42)
Rnd 8: (sc next 6 sts, 2 sc next st) around. (48)
Rnd 9: (sc next 7 sts, 2 sc next st) around. (54)
Rnd 10: (sc next 8 sts, 2 sc next st) around. (60) Finish off first one (DO NOT sl st in next st to even out row).  DO NOT finish off after Rnd 10 for 2nd one.

JOIN BASES:
Holding wrong sides together, matching up increases and working through both thicknesses.  Don’t worry about the step from the last rnd of the 1st Base, it will even itself out and be much easier to see the stitches without a sl st in the way.
View of the bottom

Rnd 11: Sl st in each st around.  (60)
if you are doing two different colors, or just want a neater finish, you can finish off here and re-attach yarn for the next rnd.  I just ch 1 and continue onto the next rnd if I am working in just one color.
Rnd 12: Working only in the loops from rnd 10 of back piece this rnd only. Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st in first st to join. (60)
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in each st around.  Sl st in first st to join. (60)
Rnd 14: Ch 1, (sc next 14 sts, 3 sc next st) around. Sl st in first st to join. (68)
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc around. Sl st in first st to join.  (68)
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc next 15 sts, 3 sc next st. (Sc next 16 sts, 3 sc next st) 3 times. Sc last st. Sl st in first st to join. (76)
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc around. Sl st in first st to join. (76)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc next16 sts, 3 sc next st. (Sc next 18 sts, 3 sc next st) 3 times. Sc last 2 sts. Sl st in first st to join. (84)
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc around. Sl st in first sc to join. (84)
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc next 17 sts, 3 sc next st. (Sc next 20 sts, 3 sc next st) 3 times. Sc last 3 sts. Sl st in first st to join. (92)
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc next 18 sts, 3 sc next st. (Sc next 22 sts, 3 sc next st) 3 times. Sc last 4 sts. Sl st in first st to join. (100)
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc next 19 sts, 3 sc next st. (Sc next 24 sts, 3 sc next st) 3 times. Sc last 5 sts.  Sl st in first st to join. (108)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc next 20 sts, 3 sc next st. (Sc next 26 sts, 3 sc next st) 3 times. Sc last 6 sts. Sl st in first st to join. (116)
Rnd 24: Sl st in each st around.  Finish off and weave in all ends.

Saturday, January 23, 2016

MANDALILY, a FREE crochet doily pattern


Working with thread is a passion of mine.  For a few years while we were stationed overseas I ONLY did thread work.  Making doilies and home decor items with a fervor.  Since returning state side my thread work has fallen to the wayside and I have worked primarily with heavier yarns.  But recently I felt a longing to go back to my roots (the beautiful background you see on my page was created by my great grandmother).

The name for the doily came from a bit of miscommunication.  I was taking suggestions for names and misunderstood as I was told the name over the phone.  After I posted the suggestions to my Facebook page and I let people vote for their favorite.  The name "Mandalily" was the favorite by far. A big THANK YOU goes out to all those who suggested names and who gave wonderful compliments of my work. Your kindness and participation made this process so much easier.  

The design began in my sketch notebook and then took off as I put hook to thread.   I have a software for making this design charted....but it is slow going.  Be patient and I may one day have that finished as well!!  I do hope you enjoy this design as much as I enjoyed creating it.  

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!



This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B



A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.

















If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B

Mandalily 
Give it a <3 or add it to your Ravelry queue here


Size: 14-1/2” square

Skill level: Intermediate

Materials: size 7 (1.65mm) crochet hook, Aunt Lydias Classic 10 cotton crochet thread (0, lace weight, size 10), pins, blocking board, and your choice of blocking medium (water, starch, or steam).

Gauge: Rnd 1 completed measures 5/8” before blocking (gauge is not necessarily important unless you want your doily to be the exact same measurement as mine)

Stitches and Terms:

  • Ch - chain
  • sl st - slip stitch
  • dc - double crochet
  • beg - beginning
  • sk - skip
  • st (sts) - stitch (stitches)
  • dc2tog - double crochet two together
  • dc3tog - double crochet three together
  • dc4tog - double crochet four together
Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in ring.  Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. (12)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as beg ch.  * Ch 5, sk 2 sts **, 3 dc in next st. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st as beg ch.  Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. * Ch 3, sc in sp, ch 3 **.  2 dc next st, dc next st, 2 dc next st.  Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st as beg ch. 2 dc next st, dc next st, 2 dc next st 2 times. *Ch 6 **, 2 dc next st 2 times, dc next st, 2 dc next st 2 times.  Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join. 
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc next 6 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts. * Ch 5, sc next ch sp, ch 5, ** dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc next 5 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc next 4 sts, dc2 tog over next 2 sts. * (Ch 5, sc next ch sp) 2 times, ch 5 **. Dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc next 3 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first dc to join.
Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc next 2 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts. * (Ch 5, sc next ch sp) 3 times, ch 5 **. Dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first dc to join. 
Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc2tog over next 2 sts. * (Ch 5, sc next ch sp) 2 times, ch 3, 3 dc next sc, ch 3, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times **, dc3tog over next 3 sts. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first st to join.
Rnd 9: Ch 1, (sc, ch 5, sc) in top of first st. *  (Ch 5, sc next ch sp) 3 times, Ch 3, 2 dc next st, dc next st, 2 dc next st, ch 3, (sc next ch sp, ch 5) 3 times **. (sc, ch 5, sc) in top of next st. Repeat from * around ending at **. Ch 2, dc in first st to join. 
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in sp below.  (Ch 5, sc next sp) 4 times. * Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, ch 3, sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). ** (Ch 5, sc next sp) 6 times. Repeat from * around ending at **. Ch 5, sc next sp, ch 2, dc in first sc to join. 
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in sp below (Ch 5, sc next sp) 4 times. * Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, ch 5, sc next ch sp, ch 5, sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). ** (Ch 5, sc next sp) 5 times. Repeat from * around ending at **. Ch 2, dc in first sc to join. 
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in sp below. * (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times. Ch 5, sc in same sp. (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times. * Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times, ch 5, sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 13: Sl st in next 2 ch. Ch 1, sc in sp below. * (Ch 5, sc next sp) 4 times.  Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 3 times, ch 5, sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 14: Sl st in next 2 ch. Ch 1, sc in sp below. * (Ch 5, sc next sp) 3 times.  Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 4 times, ch 5, sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 15:  Sl st in next 2 ch. Ch 1, sc in sp below. * Ch 5, sc next sp, Ch 5, sc in same sp, ch 5, sc next sp. Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times, 10 dc in next ch sp, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times. Sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 16: Sl st in next 2 ch. Ch 1, sc in sp below. * (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times. Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times, (Ch 1, dc in top of next dc) 10 times. Ch 1, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times. Sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 17: Sl st in next 2 ch. Ch 1, sc in sp below. * Ch 5, sc next sp. Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times, (Ch 2, dc in top of next dc) 10 times. Ch 2, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times. Sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **, sc in next ch sp (not the one you just put a dc in). Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 18: sl st in next 2 ch. Ch 1, (sc, ch 5, sc) in same sp as join. * Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times. Ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next 11 ch 2 sps, ch 1, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times.  Sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **.  (Sc, ch 5, sc) in next sp. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 19: Sl st in next 2 ch. Ch 1, sc in sp below. * Ch 3, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts, (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times. Ch 2, sk next ch 1 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next 11 ch 1 sps, ch 2, sk next ch 1 sp, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times.  Sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **.  Sc in next sp. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of first sc to join.
Rnd 20: Sl st in next 3 ch. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts. * (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times.  Ch 3, sk next ch 2 sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next 11 ch 2 sps, ch 3, sk next ch 2 sp, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times.  Sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, ch 3 **, dc in last ch of next ch sp, dc next 2 sts. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rnd 21: Ch 3, dc in next st. * (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times.  Ch 4, sk next ch 3 sp, (dc, ch 4, dc) in the next 11 ch 3 sps, ch 4, sk next ch 3 sp, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times.  Sk next st, dc next 2 sts and in first ch of next ch sp, sk 1 ch, dc in last ch **, dc next 2 sts. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rnd 22: Sl st in next st and next 2 chs. Ch 1, sc. Ch 5, sc next sp, *ch 5, sk next ch 4 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in the next 11 Ch 4 sps, ch 5, sk next ch 4 sp, (sc next sp, ch 5) 2 times. Sk next st, dc4tog over next 4 sts **. (Ch 5, sc next sp) 2 times.  Repeat from * around ending at **. Ch 2, dc in first sc to join.
Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc in sp below. (Ch 6, sc next sp) around. Ch 3, dc in first sc to join.
Rnd 24: Ch 1, sc in sp below. (Ch 7, sc next sp) around. Ch 3, trc in first sc to join.
Rnd 25: Ch 1, sc in sp below. * Ch 3, dc next sc, ch 3, sc next sp. Repeat from * around. Ch 2, sc in first sc to join.
Rnd 26: Ch 1, sc in sp below. *Ch 1, sc next sp, ch 6, sc next sp. Repeat from * around. Sl st in first sc to join.  Finish off and weave in ends. 

Blocking:

** My measurements in the blocking section are not critical, unless you want your piece to measure the exact same.  As long as you have the same measurements on each side from the center to the edge, your doily will have a nice even shape....and that is the most important :)

I use a childrens foam play mat for my blocking board.  You could also use a piece of Styrofoam or cardboard as well, as long as your surface can be pierced with pins. This shape can be difficult to get.  I'll explain how I was able to quickly pin so that you are not ripping your hair out trying to get it straight.  You will be referencing the image below. 
1) First thing is to place a pin in the very center of the doily.  
2) Next, you will stretch your doily to the correct measurement on the red lines, pinning into place. Mine measured 14-1/2 inches across (7-1/4 inches from center to edge) I also pinned my tape measure in place to assist in the process.  
3) Next you will stretch and pin the blue lines.  These corners do not have ONE center point, so your measurement will be for both chain spaces.  I stretched my tape measure between the two and pinned on either side.  Mine measured 17-1/2 inches from corner to corner ( 8-3/4 inches from center to corner). 
4) Then using the placed pins as a guide, pin the remaining chain spaces. 
 My preferred method to block is steam.  I have a garment steamer and can quickly set the stitches and then allow to dry for approximately 10 minutes and then remove the pins.  It will hold it's shape (it may slightly shrink) and have a beautiful drape.  You can also use a spray bottle and wet the doily with water or a starch solution.  Then place a fan blowing on it and allow to completely dry before removing the pins.