Saturday, April 15, 2017

MEANDERING PAW PRINTS PET SCARF FREE Crochet Pattern


Meandering Paw Prints is now a PET SCARF!!! Four different sizes to be able to fit MOST average pet sizes. These would make an AMAZING addition to a craft fair table or for your local Animal Rescue FUNDRAISER!!! If you take the time to make these for your fur babies I would love to see pictures!!  You can add them on Facebook at my Amy B Stitched page or on a project page over on Ravelry. Also, if you are having difficulty with any of my patterns you can comment here, OR you can private message me at my Amy B Stitched Facebook page.


Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!



This pattern is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make finished items for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B

MEANDERING PAW PRINTS PET SCARVES


SIZE: neck measurement excluding tie: x-small 9”, small 12 ½”, medium 16 ½”, large 24”

MATERIALS: Size I/9/5.50mm crochet hook, Worsted weight/medium/size 4 yarn (XS 0.4oz/25 yds, S 0.6oz/35 yds, M 1.1oz/60 yds,  L 1.8oz/80 yds), scissors, yarn needle

GAUGE: without blocking. The first 2 rows of pattern from center bottom to top = 1 ½”, across the top of 2nd row = 2 ½”

TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS:
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Sl st – Slip Stitch
St (s) – stitch (es)
Sk – skip (skipped)

NOTES:
1) Ch 3 at the beginning of each row counts as the first stitch (first dc) of that row.
2) To help keep track of your stitches, the row stitch counts are in parenthesis at the end of each row. Chains are counted as individual stitches, except where you are instructed to “2 sc in ch 4 sp” then the entire ch sp is counted as one and you will work into the next stitch following the ch 4 sp.
3) Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch.






X-SMALL:
Row 1: Ch 4, 3 dc in 4th ch from hook. (4 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 2 sts, 3 dc in last st. (8 dc)
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 2 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 2 sts, 3 dc in last st. (10 dc, one ch 4 sp)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 space, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 2 sts, 3 dc in last st. (12 dc, two ch 1 sp, 2 sc)
Row 5: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 5, 3 dc in last st. (18 dc, two ch 1 sp)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 18 sts, 3 dc in last st. (24 dc)
Row 7: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 22 sts, 3 dc in last st. (28 dc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (28 sc) DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to edging instructions at bottom of pattern.

SMALL:
Repeat Rows 1-5 of x-small
Row 6: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 2 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 14 sts, 3 dc last st. (22 dc, one ch 4 sp)
Row 7: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 4 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 8 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 space, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 2 sts, 3 dc in last st. (22 dc, one ch 4 sp, two ch 1 sp)
Row 8: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 7 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 4 sts, 3 dc in last st. (26 dc, four ch 1 sp)
Row 9: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 7 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 19 sts, 3 dc in last st. (34 dc, two ch 1 sp)
Row 10: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 34 sts. 3 dc in last st. (40 dc)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (40 sc) DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to edging instructions at bottom of pattern.

MEDIUM:
Repeat Rows 1-5 of x-small
Repeat Rows 6-9 of small
Row 10: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 14 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 18 sts. 3 dc in last st. (38 dc, one ch 4 sp)
Row 11: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 18 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 space, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 14 sts. 3 dc in last st. (40 dc, two ch 1 sp, 2 sc)
Row 12: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 17 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 21 sts. 3 dc in last st. (46 dc, two ch 1 sp)
Row 13: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 46 sts. 3 dc in last st. (52 dc)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (52 sc) DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to edging instructions at bottom of pattern.

LARGE:
Repeat Rows 1-5 of X-small
Repeat Rows 6-9 of small
Repeat Rows 10-11 of medium
Row 12: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 17 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 4 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 15 sts. 3 dc in last st. (44 dc, two ch 1 sp, one ch 4 sp)
Row 13: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 15 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 space, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 25 sts. 3 dc in last st. (48 dc, two ch 1 sp)
Row 14: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 18 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 8 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 18 sts. 3 dc in last st. (52 dc, one ch 4 sp, two ch 1 sp)
Row 15: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 30 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 space, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 18 sts. 3 dc in last st. (56 dc, two ch 1 sp, 2 sc)
Row 16: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 21 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 33 sts. 3 dc in last st. (62 dc, two ch 1 sp)
Row 17: Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in first st. Dc next 62 sts. 3 dc in last st. (68 dc)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (68 sc)  DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to edging instructions at bottom of pattern.



EDGING:
Continuing from the end of the last sc row. Work 2 more sc in last st to work around corner. Sc evenly down the side (3 sc in the end of each row should work, but if this makes your work curl you can do 3 in the end of one row and 2 in the end of the next. Whatever you need to make it work smoothly). 3 sc at the bottom point, then work evenly up the other side. When you reach the final corner (first sc of last row of scarf) work 2 more sc in that corner, sl st in first sc. Finish off.


TIE:
Ch 25. Join with a sl st in the last sc you made on the edging. Sl st in each st across the top row of scarf. Ch 25. Finish off. You do not need to weave in the tail of the tie, but you do want to make sure the knots are secure and then clip the tail to approx 1/8”- 1/4”.


Saturday, March 25, 2017

PUPPY LOVE Crochet Afghan Pattern - FREE


HERE IT IS!!!! I like to call this pattern "PUPPY LOVE"!!  It is a combination of two of my latest patterns, Meandering Paw Prints and Hopeful Hearts. It is an advanced level pattern and I suggest that if you haven't already, that you work up the Meandering Paw Prints scarf first so that you are familiar with the paw print portion. That will make the pattern seem less overwhelming.

Right here I want to say a BIG heartfelt THANK YOU to the ladies who tested this pattern for me!! Without them this might have been a really big mess!! They have stood beside me as I made corrections and encouraged me!!  YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE!!! Without you, this would have been crazy!!

Please take time to read through the pattern NOTES first and refer back to them if you have questions. If you are still experiencing difficulty with the pattern you can comment here, but the best way to get adequate help from me is to private message me at my Amy B Stitched facebook page. If you include pictures of your troubled spot I can usually help you find your problem right away. But please be patient in waiting for a response, I work a day job (so that I can keep my patterns FREE and still have money to buy more yarn) and may not be able to answer right away, but will get to you as soon as I am able.

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This pattern is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make finished items for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog
 www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means. I offer my patterns for FREE so that everyone may enjoy them, but rely on blog traffic and ad clicks to generate a little bit of income for myself. I hope you understand and will respect this so that I can KEEP them FREE.  NOTE: I totally understand the need to make a copy for yourself to work from....just please do not mass produce and distribute. THANK YOU!!


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B


PUPPY LOVE Afghan pattern

Add this pattern to Ravelry queue or give it a <3 here

SKILL LEVEL: Advanced

Base pattern square used to determine gauge.
SIZE: Each base pattern square is approx. 10 ½ inches BEFORE blocking, each pattern repeat is 10 inches x 10 ½ inches. You will also add 1 ½ inches to the final size for border. Examples below:

4 base pattern square (two rows of two) 20 ½ inches tall x 21 inches wide + 1 ½ inch border = 22” x 22 ½”

9 base pattern square (three rows of three) 30 ½ inches tall x 31 ½ inches wide + 1 ½ inch border = 32” x 33”

MATERIALS: size I/9/5.5 mm crochet hook, worsted weight/size 4/medium yarn (57 yards per pattern repeat, *worsted weight yarn averages 50-52 yards per ounce), yarn needle.
EXAMPLE: This picture shows an afghan made with 4 of the base pattern square. When deciding how much yarn you need you will multiply  57 yards x 4, which tells you that you will need 228 yards to complete this small afghan, plus enough to finish your edging. 




GAUGE: Base pattern square = 10 ½ inches x 10 ½ inches BEFORE blocking. For gauge swatch follow the pattern for one repeat ending at the **.

STITCHES/TERMS USED:
YO – yarn over
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Dc dec – double crochet decrease: yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.
Yo – yarn over
Sc – single crochet`
Sk – skip
Sp – space
St(s) – stitch (stitches)
Sl st - slip stitch
BLO – back loop only

NOTES:
1) This afghan is worked in multiples of 34 sts + 2

2) Ch 2 at beginning of row does NOT count as a stitch.

3) Rows 2, 8, 10 and 16: Do not let the dc count confuse you. This row can be tricky if you don’t follow exactly as written.  You will see that it says “dc 18”, but don’t forget it is attached to a “dc, ch 1, sk 1” or variation thereof, so there are actually 19 dc together at some points within the pattern repeat.  Don’t let it confuse you when you go back to count your stitches.

4) Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch.



5) The (ch 1, dc) mesh surrounding the heart can mess with someone who likes symmetry and might be a little OCD. On the leading and ending edges you will have an uneven amount of mesh openings. This is actually correct. Because of the off-set mesh and the end of the row, this is the way I intended it to work. I hope you can push through!! The final results prove that it doesn't make too much difference once the border is in place.
leading edge mesh around heart close-up

and close up of the paw print...just because you may need it!!


AFGHAN
Chain desired length. (For one base pattern square chain 34 + 2, add 34 chains for each additional pattern repeat). The + 2 is added only once at the end for the turning chain. NOTE: if you are only doing one block (34 + 2 chs) you will end each row at the **.

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st across.

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. * Dc 18, (ch 1, sk 1, dc) 8 times. Repeat from * across.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first st. (Dc, ch 1, sk 1) 2 times. Dc, ch 1, sk 2, 3 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, (dc, ch 1, sk 1) 3 times. * Dc 11, ch 4, sk 2, dc 4 **. (Ch 1, sk 1, dc) 3 times, ch 1, sk 2, 3 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, (dc, ch 1, sk 1) 3 times. Repeat from * across ending at **.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Dc 2, * ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 10. (Ch 1, sk 1, dc) 2 times, ch 1, sk 2, 2 dc next st, dc, 2 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, (dc, ch 1, sk 1) 2 times **, dc 3.  Repeat from * across ending at **. Dc in last st.

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc 2, ch 1, sk 1, dc, * ch 1, sk 2, 2 dc next st, dc 3, 2 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, (dc, ch 1, sk 1) 2 times. Dc 4, ch 4, sk 2, dc 4, ch 1, sk 2, dc in next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 3 **, (ch 1, sk 1, dc) 2 times. Repeat from * across ending at **.

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc 9, * ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 3.  Ch 1, sk 1, dc, ch 1, sk 2, 2 dc next st, dc 5, 2 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 10. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last st.

Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc 2, * ch 2, sk 2, (dc-dec over next 2 sts) two times, [dc, ch 3, dc] in next st, (dc-dec over next 2 sts) two times, ch 2, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc 3, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 10 **, ch 1, sk 1, dc. Repeat from * across ending at **.

Row 8: Ch 2, turn. * Dc 18, (ch 1, sk 1, dc) 8 times. Repeat from * across.

Row 9: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st across.

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. * (dc, ch 1, sk 1) 8 times, dc 18. Repeat from * across.

Row 11: Ch 2, turn. * Dc 4, ch 4, sk 2, dc 11.  (Ch 1, sk 1, dc) 3 times, ch 1, sk 2, 3 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, (dc, ch 1, sk 1) ** 3 times. Repeat from * across ending at **. 2 times.  Dc in last 2 sts.

Row 12: Ch 2, turn. (Dc, ch 1, sk 1) 2 times, dc, * ch 1, sk 2, 2 dc next st, dc, 2 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, (dc, ch 1, sk 1) 2 times.  Dc 10, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1  **, dc 3.  (Ch 1, sk 1, dc) 2 times. Repeat form * across ending at **. Dc in last 2 sts.

Row 13: Ch 2, turn. * Dc 3, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 4, ch 4, sk 2, dc 4. (Ch 1, sk 1, dc) 2 times, ch 1, sk 2, 2 dc next st, dc 3, 2 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2 **, (dc, ch 1, sk 1) 2 times. Repeat from * across ending at **. Dc, ch 1, sk 1. Dc last 2 sts.

Row 14: Ch 2, turn. Dc, * ch 1, sk 1, dc, ch 1, sk 2, 2 dc next st, dc 5, 2 dc next st, ch 1, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1.  Dc 3, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 10. Repeat from * across ending at **. Dc last 9 sts.

Row 15: Ch 2, turn. * Dc 10, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 3.  Ch 1, sk 1, dc, ch 2, sk 2, (dc-dec over 2 sts) 2 times, [dc, ch 3, dc] in next st, (dc-dec over 2 sts) 2 times, ch 2, sk 2, dc **, ch 1, sk 1. Repeat from * across ending at **. Dc in last st.

Row 16: Ch 2, turn. * (Dc, ch 1, sk 1) 8 times, dc 18. Repeat from * across.

Row 17: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st across.

Repeat Rows 2-17 until desired length is reached. Do NOT finish off.

EDGING

Round 1: Ch 3, Dc evenly around blanet, placing 5 dc in each corner, 2 dc in the end of each row and 1 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st in the top of beg ch 3 to join.

Round 2: Working in BLO, sl st in each st around. Finish off. Weave in all ends securely.


Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Meandering Paw Prints FREE Crochet Beanie Pattern

Two weeks ago I released the Meandering Paw Prints scarf pattern and was inundated with requests for a matching beanie.  There are four sizes, each written in a separate pattern for ease of reading and there is even a PONYTAIL option!!! So here it is!!!!  But first, let me tell you how EXCITED I was to find out how many people were making the scarf to donate the proceeds to help with their local animal rescue!!  I am BEYOND thrilled to know that one little pattern could make such a difference!!!

PLEASE NOTE: The beanie pattern is not a beginner pattern, it is much more difficult than the scarf pattern. If you haven't ever worked in the round you might find it a bit confusing.  Each size is written in it's own pattern because the starting of certain rounds are so different that this made it easier to follow. It was written this way to prevent the join (seam) from falling within the bounds of the paw print. If you are having difficulty with the pattern, you may want to PM me at my Amy B Stitched facebook page. Including pictures can help me to determine where your difficulty may be.  Please be patient while waiting for a response, I work a 30+ hr a week job and work on my patterns during my breaks and free time at home. Thanks for your understanding :)


Find the matching scarf pattern here

We have two little fur babies of our own.  Cici and Brutus.  They filled our hearts when the nest began to empty. Brutus came from a rescue.  He was found wandering the streets and was missing most of the hair from his back due to a skin infection.  And he smelled HORRIBLE when we brought him home.  But he has brought so much JOY to our lives!!! And he is great company for Cici when we are gone to work.

Brutus!! Look at that precious mug!!


Cici!! What a diva she is!!

Nap time cuddles!!
Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This pattern is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make finished items for profit. And please consider making and donating to your local rescue for fundraising. But please, remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means without permission from me, Amy B!


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B

ERRATA: There was a missing * in Round 3 of the Medium beanie pattern. Use of ** in rounds 2-4 of each size has been added to clarify stopping point.

MEANDERING PAW PRINTS BEANIE

Add to your Ravelry Queue here

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

SIZE: Extra Large 21” x 8 ½” (Large 20” x 8”, Medium 17” x 7 ½”, Small 13 ½” x 6”). These are actual measurements. Allow 1-2 inches for stretch when choosing size.

MATERIALS: Size H/7/5.0 mm crochet hook, size G/6/4.5 mm crochet hook, Worsted/4/medium weight yarn approx. 3 oz ( 175 yards), yarn needle.

GAUGE: 14 double crochet = 4 inches, 8 double crochet rows = 4 inches

TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS USED:
FDC – foundation double crochet (full instructions below in NOTE section)
YO – yarn over
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Dc dec – double crochet decrease
Sc dec – single crochet decrease`
Sk – skip
Sp – space
St(s) – stitch (stitches)
Rev Sc – reverse single crochet (also called a crab stitch)

NOTE:
1) Ch 2 at beginning of row does NOT count as a stitch. Your first stitch will be placed in the joining stitch that the ch 2 comes from unless stated otherwise.
2) PONYTAIL OPTION: Stop pattern as indicated. Next row: Ch 1, rev sc around.  Finish off and weave in ends.
3) Foundation Double Crochet: Ch 3, YO, insert hook in 3rd ch from hook, YO, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), YO and draw through 1 loop (1 ch made), [YO and draw through 2 loops] 2 times. (First FDC completed). *YO, insert hook under 2 loops of ch at bottom of st just made, YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), YO and draw through 1 loop (1 ch made), [YO and draw through 2 loops] 2 times.  Repeat from * until desired number of FDC completed.
4) Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch.





EXTRA LARGE
With size H hook
Rnd 1 (foundation round): Making sure to start with a 6 inch tail, FDC 71.  Sl stitch in top of beg ch 3 to join, be careful to not twist. Bottom of foundation round will be secured together with the tail when you begin the brim. Beg ch 3 is counted as the first stitch in this round. (72)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc 4, * ch 4, sk 2 **, dc 16.  Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 12. Sl st in 1st dc to join. (80)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc 2. * Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 12. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 10.  Sl st in 1st dc to join. (72)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc 3, * ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 6, Ch 4, sk 2 **, dc 6. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 3. Sl st in first dc to join. (80)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc 11. * Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 12. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in 1. Sl st in first dc to join. (72)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc 12. * Ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1**, dc 14. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc 2. Sl st in first dc to join. (72)
Rnd 7-9: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st in 1st dc to join. (72)
Rnd 10: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 6) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (63)
Rnd 11: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 5) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (54)
Rnd 12: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 4) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (45)
Rnd 13: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 3) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (36)
Rnd 14: Ch 2, dc dec around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (18) FOR PONYTAIL OPTION STOP HERE. Do NOT finish off. Instructions for ponytail option in NOTE section #2.
Rnd 15: Ch 2, dc dec around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (9) Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch length. Thread onto yarn needle and weave through top of last round and pull closed.  Weave in ends and finish off.
BRIM:  Now is the time to finish off the beginning row using the 6 inch tail you left when you started by stitching the last stitch to the beginning ch 3.
Using size G hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st where you joined the foundation round. If you want a longer slouchy hat, start with Rnd 1.  You can repeat this round as many times as you like to make the hat as slouchy as you want.  If you want a tighter fitting beanie, skip Rnd 1 and simply start at Rnd 2.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st in first dc to join. (72)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc around.  Finish off and weave in all loose ends.



LARGE
With size H hook
Rnd 1 (foundation round): Making sure to start with a 6 inch tail, FDC 63.  Sl stitch in top of beg ch 3 to join, be careful to not twist. Bottom of foundation round will be secured together with the tail when you begin the brim. Beg ch 3 is counted as the first stitch in this round. (64)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc 4, * ch 4, sk 2 **, dc 14.  Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 10. Sl st in 1st dc to join. (72)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc 2. * Ch 1 sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 10. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 8.  Sl st in 1st dc to join. (64)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc 3, * ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 5, Ch 4, sk 2 **, dc 5. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 2. Sl st in first dc to join. (72)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc 10. * Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 10. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in first dc to join. (64)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc 11. * Ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1**, dc 12. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc 1. Sl st in first dc to join. (64)
Rnd 7-8: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st in 1st dc to join. (64)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 6) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (56)
Rnd 10: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 5) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (48)
Rnd 11: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 4) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (40)
Rnd 12: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 3) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (32)
Rnd 13: Ch 2, dc dec around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (16) FOR PONYTAIL OPTION STOP HERE. Do NOT finish off. Instructions for ponytail option in NOTE section #2.
Rnd 14: Ch 2, dc dec around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (8) Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch length. Thread onto yarn needle and weave through top of last round and pull closed.  Weave in ends and finish off.
BRIM:  Now is the time to finish off the beginning row using the 6 inch tail you left when you started started by stitching the last stitch to the beginning ch 3.
Using size G hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st where you joined the foundation round. If you want a longer slouchy hat, start with Rnd 1.  You can repeat this round as many times as you like to make the hat as slouchy as you want.  If you want a tighter fitting beanie, skip Rnd 1 and simply start at Rnd 2.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st in first dc to join. (64)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc around.  Finish off and weave in all loose ends.



MEDIUM
With size H hook
Rnd 1 (foundation round): Making sure to start with a 6 inch tail, FDC 55. Sl stitch in top of beg ch 3 to join, be careful to not twist. Bottom of foundation round will be secured together with the tail when you begin the brim. Beg ch 3 is counted as the first stitch in this round. (56)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc 2, * ch 4, sk 2 **, dc 12.  Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 10. Sl st in 1st dc to join. (64)
Rnd 3: Ch 4 (count the first stitch that the beg ch 4 comes from as your skipped stitch), *sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 8, ch 1. Repeat from * around.  Sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch 4. (This beg ch 4 is not counted as a stitch for placement in the next round). (56)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc 1 in next ch sp, * ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc  4, Ch 4, sk 2 **, dc  4. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 3 sts. Sl st in first dc to join. (64)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc 7. * Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 8. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc 1. Sl st in first dc to join. (56)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc 8. * Ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1**, dc 10. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc 2. Sl st in first dc to join. (56)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st in 1st dc to join. (56)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 6) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (49)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 5) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (42)
Rnd 10: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 4) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (35)
Rnd 11: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 3) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (28)
Rnd 12: Ch 2, dc dec around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (14) FOR PONYTAIL OPTION STOP HERE. Do NOT finish off. Instructions for ponytail option in NOTE section #2.
Rnd 13: Ch 2, dc dec around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (7) Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch length. Thread onto yarn needle and weave through top of last round and pull closed.  Weave in ends and finish off.
BRIM:  Now is the time to finish off the beginning row using the 6 inch tail you left when you started started by stitching the last stitch to the beginning ch 3.
Using size G hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st where you joined the foundation round. Ch 1, rev sc around.  Finish off and weave in all loose ends.





SMALL
With size H hook
Rnd 1 (foundation round): Making sure to start with a 6 inch tail, FDC 47.  Sl stitch in top of beg ch 3 to join, be careful to not twist. Bottom of foundation round will be secured together with the tail when you begin the brim. Beg ch 3 is counted as the first stitch in this round. (48)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc 4, * ch 4, sk 2 **, dc 14.  Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 10. Sl st in 1st dc to join. (54)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc 2. * Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 10. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 8.  Sl st in 1st dc to join. (48)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc 3, * ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 5, Ch 4, sk 2 **, dc 5. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc in last 2. Sl st in first dc to join. (54)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc 10. * Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1 **, dc 10. Repeat from * around ending at **. Sl st in first dc to join. (48)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc 11. * Ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1**, dc 12. Repeat from * around ending at **. Dc 1. Sl st in first dc to join. (48)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 6) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (42)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 5) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (36)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 4) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (30)
Rnd 10: Ch 2, (dc dec, dc 3) around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (24)
Rnd 11: Ch 2, dc dec around. Sl st in first dc dec to join. (12)  Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch length. Thread onto yarn needle and weave through top of last round and pull closed.  Weave in ends and finish off.
BRIM:  Now is the time to finish off the beginning row using the 6 inch tail you left when you started started by stitching the last stitch to the beginning ch 3.
Using size G hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st where you joined the foundation round. Ch 1, rev sc around.  Finish off and weave in all loose ends.


Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Meandering Paw Prints FREE Scarf Pattern

Have you been looking for a scarf pattern that shows off  your love for animals without making you feel like you are wearing a childs design?? The Meandering Paw Prints scarf pattern fits that bill and will work for a Dog or Cat lover equally.

EDIT: I have recently added the matching beanie pattern here on my blog. Find it here

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!

 This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B

 A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.




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Blessings!!!

Amy B

MEANDERING PAW PRINTS  
Add to your Ravelry queue here

SKILL LEVEL: Beginner/easy

SIZE: 6 inches wide, each repeat of meandering paw prints is 14” long. I used 5 repeats for an adult scarf and 3 for a childs scarf.

MATERIALS: Size I/9/5.50 mm crochet hook, Worsted/4/medium weight yarn approx. 6 oz (315 yards), yarn needle, measuring tape.

GAUGE: 16 dc = 4 inches, 7 dc rows = 4 inches

TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS USED:
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Sk – skip
Sp – space
St(s) – stitch (stitches)

NOTE:
1)      Ch 2 at beginning of row does NOT count as a stitch.
2)      Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch. (see pics below)

This is what it will look like right before you begin this stitch.

You can see this dc is worked "around" the previous dc.

Completed cross stitch.

Ch 22.
Row 1: Working in the back ridge of the starting ch, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (20 dc)
Row 2: ch 2, turn. Dc 4, ch 4, sk 2 sts, dc 14.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Dc 12, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 2.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Dc 3, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st (see note 2), ch 1, sk 1, dc 13.
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc across.
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc 9, ch 4, sk 2, dc 9.
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc 7, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 7.
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc 8, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 8.
Row 9: Ch 2, turn. Dc across.
Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc 6, ch 4, sk 2, dc 12.
Row 11: Ch 2, turn. Dc 10, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 4.
Row 12: Ch 2, turn. Dc 5, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 11.
Row 13: Ch 2, turn. Dc across.
Row 14: Ch 2, turn. Dc 12, ch 4, sk 2, dc 6.
Row 15: Ch 2, turn. Dc 4, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch sp. Dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 10.
Row 16: Ch 2, turn. Dc 11, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 5.
Row 17: Ch 2, turn. Dc across.
Row 18: Ch 2, turn. Dc 8, ch 4, sk 2, dc 10.
Row 19: Ch 2, turn. Dc 8, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 6.
Row 20: Ch 2, turn. Dc 7, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 9.
Row 21: Ch 2, turn. Dc across.
Row 22: Ch 2, turn. Dc 14, ch 4, sk 2, dc 4.
Row 23: Ch 2, turn. Dc 2, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc next ch sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 12.
Row 24: Ch 2, turn. Dc 13, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 3.
Row 25: Ch 2, turn. Dc across.
Repeat rows 2-25 until desired length is reached.  Finish off and weave in all ends. 

FRINGE
Cut 80 fifteen inch strands. Take 2 strands and attach with a half hitch to each stitch on both ends of the scarf.  Trim ends evenly. 

To give stability and a nice finished detail, I like to slip stitch a row just below the fringe (or above, depending on which way you are looking at it) on each end of the scarf.  This also allows you to even up the ends in case you are like me and you start off much looser than you finish.

Thursday, August 11, 2016

Hopeful Hearts FREE symbol crochet pattern

Hopeful Hearts 

By Amy B Stitched          

The Hopeful Hearts design was inspired by a family friend named Heather who had recently undergone heart transplant surgery.  There are SO many people affected by this type of surgery and such a vast support system is needed to get through it.  That’s why I put so many hearts into this design.  From the family of the donor making such a life giving choice, to the family of the recipient, hopeful for more time with their loved one. You also have the surgical teams on both sides, doctors and nursing staff to see you through all of the technical stuff. You have friends who provide meals, transportation, funds and a shoulder when you need it.  So many are affected!! So many people LOVE so deeply that they fight along side you.  So Heather…..this is for you…..and for all the others out there who are hopeful for many more tomorrows. 

If you are interested in learning more about being an organ donor check out these links below that Heather shared with me.

http://www.organdonor.gov/
https://www.unos.org/donation/facts/

Hopeful Hearts pdf pattern click here  at this time only the symbol version of the pattern is available.  The written pattern is in the works and will be completed once my day job slows down lol
ERRATA: the symbol pattern has been corrected to reflect proper placement of decrease stitches on the top row of the hearts. 


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free sell completed items for profit, but please consider making one or more to donate to a local charity. 

Thank You!!! Amy B

Materials for lightweight scarf pictured above on the right:
•             Artiste 100% Acrylic Crochet Thread, 370 yards, #5 crochet thread (purchased at Hobby Lobby)
•             Size 5/1.90mm steel crochet hook

this is Heather modeling her shawl
Materials for Shawl pictured at left:
•             Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour, color: Red Stone  (size 2, Fine yarn,  1.75 oz, 202 yards each) you will need 5 skeins approx 1010 yards.  (purchased at JOANN’s)
•             Size E/4-3.50mm crochet hook

Gauge: not important

Stitches/Terms used: 
•             Ch = chain
•             Sk = skip
•             Dc = double crochet
•             Sp (sps) = space(s)
•             Dc2tog = double crochet 2 together



This is Heather's favorite Bible verse.





Tuesday, April 19, 2016

This Stitcher's Gotta Eat!!!! PURPLE Cauliflower Pizza Crust Recipe

Sorry I haven't been around with any new Stitching patterns lately.  I DO have some in the works....but the day job has kept me really busy.  Stay tuned and I will be posting a very special pattern within the next month.  

This week I am back home visiting my Moma.  When we visit, we always spend a lot of time in the kitchen coming up with some new and interesting things to eat. 

 Last week she had gotten a head of Purple Cauliflower in her Bountiful Baskets contribution and had no idea what to do with it.  So of course we Googled it and found out that it tastes just like regular cauliflower with some subtle differences.  We had both heard of the trend of making pizza crust with cauliflower and decided to give it a go with the purple one!!  I looked at quite a few recipes and then went to the cupboard and put together my own recipe using the ingredients we had on hand.  I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as we enjoyed consuming it!!!  And while it may seem like a lot of work, it really didn't seem to take any more time than making a traditional bread dough crust from scratch.

PURPLE CAULIFLOWER PIZZA CRUST

1/2 head cauliflower, coarsely chopped (any color of of cauliflower will work)
1/2 cup shredded Mozzarella cheese
1/4 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
1 tsp Italian seasoning 
1 egg
1 tsp chopped garlic
salt and pepper to taste

*Finely chop/shred cauliflower.

*Steam until tender (I put mine in a large glass measuring cup, rinsed and drained it, covered it with some press and seal. Then I microwaved it for 6 minutes). Allow to cool (I find it helps to transfer to a different bowl that is not hot from being cooked in and stir occasionally to release the steam)


*After the cauliflower is cooled you need to squeeze out all of the excess water.  I did this by placing it in a cloth napkin and squeezing it over a bowl.  It didn't feel very wet....but I got a LOT of purple water out of it!!  You may be tempted to use paper towels.  They will work, but you will go through a lot of them before you are done.  You also may end up with bits of paper towel in your cauliflower.  So I chose to use the cloth napkin instead.  


*Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F

*Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, oil or silicone mat.  I used oil.....my crust stuck.  I was able to get it unstuck mostly before I added the toppings and baked it, but lost some of the crunchiness on the bottom. The second one I made I used parchment and it worked out beautifully.  I was able to pick the cooled crust up with my hands and move it to another pan.  

*Once the drained cauliflower is completely cooled, stir in the remaining ingredients until evenly incorporated.


*Pour onto your prepared baking sheet; press and shape into your preferred pizza crust shape.


*Bake in the preheated oven until lightly browned, about 15 minutes.  Remove from oven and cool for 5 minutes before adding the toppings.

*Dress your pizza as desired.  I suggest adding cheese first, then your sauce. Top that with fresh veggies or meat, followed by seasonings and more cheese.  Then bake for 7 minutes more.  





DELISH!!!!!


The next day we made this recipe using regular ole white cauliflower.  We divided the crust into two and made individual sized rectangle pizzas. We made two batches so that we could put the pre-baked crusts into the freezer to be pulled out at a later time.  We don't know how the freezing process will affect these....stay tuned.  I will try to put an update in the comment section, so if you subscribe to the comments it will be emailed right to you.




Thanks for stopping by!!!
Amy B