Saturday, May 2, 2020

THISTLE AND CLOVER SHAWL PATTERN

Good Morning Stitchers!!  I am so happy to release my newest pattern "Thistle and Clover Shawl"!! This design was inspired by a most wonderful fiber I received from Joshua Graff, the mastermind behind Red Stag Fibre. When I was offered the opportunity to design something using his yarn, I had a hard time choosing between all of this amazing colorways and textures.  The colors are all so rich and vibrant. Each skein was so soft and inviting.  I ended up choosing the Estate Fingering in the tonal colorway "Jewel of the King".  This color conjured up images of the lush green meadows of Ireland and spoke to me of times long past.  I have always been fascinated by Ireland. The landscape, the history and of course, the crochet!!  I wanted to crochet a tribute to the country that has inspired me in so many ways. I hope you will enjoy working this pattern as much as I did designing it!!


Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This pattern is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make finished items for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B

Thistle and Clover Shawl

by Amy B Stitched


SKILL LEVEL: Advanced Intermediate
SIZE: 70 inches long x 17 inches wide

MATERIALS: Red Stag Fibre Estate Fingering 100% SW Merino Wool 3 ply 300g/1470 yds/colorway “Jewel of the King”, size E/3.5mm crochet hook, yarn needle.
Red Stag Fibre, Estate Fingering, Jewel of the King colorway

GAUGE:  17 sts in pattern = 3” wide 
NOTES:  
1. Multiple of 16 + 2
2. When stitching across a space, you may prefer to stitch directly into the space, or you may prefer to stitch directly into the chain that creates the space.  Either method will work and not change the appearance of the pattern.


FORWARD BAND
Row 1: Ch 98. Working in back ridge of chain, sc in 2nd ch from hook in each ch across. (97 sc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), turn.  Sk 1 st, dc next st, *ch 1, sk 1, dc next st. Repeat from * across.  (49 dc, 48 ch)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st and ch across. (97 sc) (last sc will be placed in the 3rd ch of the beg ch 4 of previous row)
Row 4: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), turn. * Sk 3 sts, dc in next st, ch 3. Repeat from * across. Dc in last st. (25 dc, 24 ch 3 sps)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, *3 sc in ch 3 sp, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. (Last sc will be placed in the 3rd ch of beg ch 6 of previous row).
REPEATS BEGIN
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc, * Sk 3 sts, 7 trc in next st, sk 3 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. (12-7trc shells, 13 sc)
Row 7: Ch 4 (counts as first trc), turn. 3 trc in 1st st. * Sk 3 sts, sc in next st, sk 3 sts, ** 7 trc in next st. Repeat from * across ending at ** on last repeat. 4 trc in last st. (2-4trc shells, 11-7trc shells, 12 sc)
Row 8: Repeat row 6.
Row 9: Ch 4 (counts as first trc), turn. 3 trc in 1st st, sk 3, * sc in next 9 sts, sk 3 sts **, 7 trc in next st, sk 3 sts. Repeat from * across ending at ** on the last repeat. 4 trc in last st. (2-4 trc shells, 5-7trc shells, 54 sc)
Row 10: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), turn. (Dc in next st, ch 1) 2 times. * (sk 1 st, dc next st) 5 times. Ch 1, sk 1 st **, (dc next st, ch 1) 5 times. Repeat from * across ending at ** on the last repeat. (Dc next st, ch 1) 2 times. Dc in top of beg ch 4 of previous row. (61 dc, 36 ch 1 sps)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st and ch across. (97 sc) (Last sc will be placed in the 3rd ch of the beg ch 4 of previous row)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 3 sts. * Hdc next st, dc next 2 sts, trc next 5 sts, dc next 2 sts, hdc next st **, sc next 5 sts. Repeat from * across ending at ** on the last repeat. Sc in last 3 sts.  (31 sc, 12 hdc, 24 dc, 30 trc)
Row 13: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn. Hdc in each st across. (97 hdc)
Row 14: Repeat row 12. Last st worked in top of beg ch 2 of previous row.
Row 15: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn. (Sk 1 st, dc next st) 2 times, * ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc next st, ch 1) 5 times **. (sk 1 st, dc next st) 5 times. Repeat from * across ending at ** on the last repeat. (Sk 1 st, dc next st) 3 times. (61 dc, 36 ch 1 sps)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. Last sc worked in top of beg ch 3 of previous row. (97 sc)
Row 17: Ch 4 (counts as first trc), turn. 3 trc in 1st st, * sk 3 sts, sc in next 9 sts, sk 3 sts **, 7 trc in next st. Repeat from * across ending at ** on the last repeat. 4 trc in last st. (2-4trc shells, 5-7trc shells, 54 sc)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 1st st, * sk 3 sts, 7 trc in next st, sk 3 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. Last sc worked in beg ch 4 of previous row. (12-7trc shells, 13 sc)
Row 19: Ch 4 (counts as first trc), turn. 3 trc in 1st st. * Sk 3 sts, sc in next st, sk 3 sts, ** 7 trc in next st. Repeat from * across ending at ** on last repeat. 4 trc in last st. (2-4 trc shells, 11-7trc shells, 12 sc)
Row 20: Repeat row 18.
Row 21: Repeat row 17.
Row 22: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), turn. (Dc in next st, ch 1) 2 times. * (Sk 1 st, dc next st) 5 times. Ch 1, sk 1 st **, (dc next st, ch 1) 5 times. Repeat from * across ending at ** on the last repeat. (Dc next st, ch 1) 2 times. Dc in beg ch 4 from previous row. (61 dc, 36 ch 1 sps)
Row 23: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st and ch across. Last sc will be in the 3rd ch of beg ch 4 of previous row. (97 sc)
Rows 24-31: Repeat rows 22 and 23 four more times. 
Row 32: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 5 sts, sk 3 sts, * 7 trc in next st, sk 3 sts **, sc in next 9 sts, sk 3 sts. Repeat from * across ending at ** on the last repeat. Sc in last 5 sts. (6-7trc shells, 55 sc)
Repeat Row 6-32 FIVE more times (or until shawl measures approx. 60 inches with fingering weight yarn, or desired length).
Repeat from Row 6 to Row 20 ONE more time, DO NOT FINISH OFF.
AFTER BAND
Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Hdc first st. * Ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts, hdc next st. Repeat from * across. (13 hdc, 12 sc, 24 ch3 sps)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, *3 sc in ch 3 sp, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. (97 sc)
Row 3: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3), turn. * Sk 3 sts, dc in next st, ch 3. Repeat from * across. Dc in last st. (25 dc, 24 ch3 sps)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, *3 sc in ch 3 sp, sc in next st. Repeat from * across. Last 4 sc, work 3 into ch3 sp, last sc will be worked into the 3rd ch of beg ch 6 of previous row. (97 sc)
Row 5: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), turn.  Sk 1 st, dc next st, *ch 1, sk 1, dc next st. Repeat from * across.  (49 dc, 48 ch)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st and ch across.  Last sc will be in the 3rd ch of the beg ch 4 of previous row. DO NOT FINISH OFF.
CLOVER EDGING: * Ch 6, turn. Sl st in 5th ch from hook, (ch 4, sl st in same ch as previous sl st) 2 times. Sl st in last ch. ** Sl st in next 4 sts. Ch 8, sl st in 5th ch from hook, (ch 4, sl st in same ch as previous sl st) 2 times. Sl st in last 3 chs. Sl st in next 4 sts. Repeat from * ending at ** on last repeat. Sl st in last st once more. Finish off.  (25 clover, 13 short, 12 tall)
Repeat Clover Edging on Foreword edge by joining with a sl st in the 1st stitch of the base chain.
Red Stag Fibre, Estate Fingering, Scottish Thistle colorway


Saturday, March 14, 2020

Meandering Paw Prints Market Tote FREE Crochet Pattern

I would like to introduce you to the 15th pattern in the Meandering Paw Prints series....the Market Tote!!

Once the weather begins to warm up, I start thinking about what I am going to crochet that is NOT layered with fuzzy warm goodness. And a market tote is something that I never have enough of.  Using only 10-12 ounces of worsted weight cotton, you can make one in every color to compliment every outfit in your closet!

If you are concerned about stretch that often comes with crocheted bags, there are a couple of things I like to remember to help minimize this. 1) use 100% cotton yarn or a blend that is majority cotton. 2) crochet your stitches as tightly as you can.  Features I have added to this pattern that also help combat stretching are shorter stitches (mostly sc and hdc) and slip stitches edging the handles. Another great feature of this pattern is that is requires absolutely NO Sewing!!

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This pattern is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make finished items for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog  www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B

 
A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means. 

If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B


MEANDERING PAW PRINTS MARKET TOTE



SIZE: approx.. 14” wide (laid flat) x 14” tall (from bottom seam, excluding straps)
MATERIALS: 10-12 oz worsted/size 4/medium weight cotton yarn, size G/4.25mm crochet hook, yarn needle.
GAUGE:  Not important.  Your main goal is to create a tight fabric to prevent stretching.

NOTES:
1) Ch 1 at the beginning of each row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
2) To help keep track of your stitches, the row stitch counts are in parenthesis at the end of each row. Chains are counted as individual stitches, except where you are instructed to “2 sc in ch 4 sp” then the entire ch sp is counted as one and you will work into the next stitch following the ch 4 sp. 
3) Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch.
4) The BODY of the TOTE is worked in an 8 round repeat. Every other round, you will crochet into the skipped stitches from the previous round to create the paw print panel on the front.

BASE of TOTE (Rounds 1-13 are all worked from the RS)
Rnd 1: Ch 29, sc in 2nd ch from hook and into next 26 chs across. 3 sc in last ch. Working down other side of chain, sc in next 26 sts, 2 sc in last ch. Sl st into 1st sc to join. (58 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, *3 sc in 1st st, sc in next 26 sts, 3 sc in next st **, sc in next st. Repeat from * to ** once. Sc in next st. Sl st into 1st sc to join. NOTE: the sl st to join rnd 1 may look like another stitch right here.  Make sure you don’t mistakenly crochet into it. If you end up with an extra stitch, this is where it came from 😊 (66 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, * 3 sc in next st, sc next 28 sts, 3 sc in next st **, sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * to ** once. Sc in last 2 sts. Sl st into 1st sc to join. (74 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 30 sts, 3 sc in next st **, sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * to ** once. Sc in last 3 sts. Sl st into 1st sc to join. (82 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, * 3 sc in next st, sc in next 32 sts, 3 sc in next st **, sc next 7 sts. Repeat from * to ** once. Sc in last 4 sts. Sl st in first sc to join. (90 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, * 3 sc in next st, sc in next 34 sts, 3 sc in next st **, sc in next 9 sts. Repeat from * to ** once. Sc in last 5 sts. Sl st in first sc to join.  (98 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in first 5 sts, * 3 sc in next st, sc in next 36 sts, 3 sc in next st **, sc in next 11 sts. Repeat from * to ** once. Sc in last 6 sts.  Sl st into first sc to join. (106 sc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, * 3 sc in next st, sc in next 38 sts, 3 sc in next st **, sc next 13 sts. Repeat from * to ** once. Sc in last 7 sts. Sl st into first sc to join. (114 sc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, working into BLO, sc in each stitch around. Sl st into first sc to join. (114)
Rnds 10-13: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st into first sc to join. Finish off at end of rnd 13. 
BODY of TOTE
Rnd 14: With RS facing, join yarn with a slst in the 20th st from the join of Rnd 13.  Ch 1, turn. Now working WS (inside of bag), hdc next 94 sts.  Leave remaining 20 sts unworked.
Rnd 15: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around (94 sts).  Working in the skipped sts from previous rnd, dc next 4, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 14 sts. Sl st in first sc of rnd to join.  (The dc portion of this rnd will be slightly shorter.  Do not fret, we will even it out in a bit). 
Rnd 16:RS, Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Hdc next 94 sts. Leave remaining 20 sts unworked.
Rnd 17: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc next 94 sts. Working sk sts from previous row, dc next 12 sts. Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc last 2 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.  
Rnd 18:WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 19: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 3, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 13 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join. 
Rnd 20: RS, Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc in next 94 sts. Leave remaining 20 sts unworked.
Rnd 21: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working into sk sts from previous rnd, dc in next 20 sts.  Sl st in 1st sc to join. (The center panel should now be evened out with the rest of the bag. Each center paw print panel will follow the same  process.)
Rnd 22: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 23: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working into sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 9 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 9 sts. Sl st into 1st sc to join.
Rnd 24: RS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 25: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working into sk sts from previous rnd, dc in next 7 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 7 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join. 
Rnd 26: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 27: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working into sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 8 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 8 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 28: RS, Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc next 94 sts. Leave remaining 20 sts unworked.
Rnd 29: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc next 94 sts. Working into sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 20 sts.  Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 30: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 31: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 6 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 12 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 32: RS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 33: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 10, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 4 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 34: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 35: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 11 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 36: RS, Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc in next 94 sts. Leave remaining 20 sts unworked.
Rnd 37: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts, working into sk sts from previous row, dc in next 20 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 38: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 39: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 12 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 6 sts.  Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 40: RS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 41: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 4 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 10 sts. St sl in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 42: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 43: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 11 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 5 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 44: RS, Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc next 94 sts. Leave remaining 20 sts unworked.
Rnd 45: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 20 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 46: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 47: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 4 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 14 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 48: RS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 49: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc next 12 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 2 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 50: WS, Repeat Rnd 16.
Rnd 51: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, Dc next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 13 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 52: RS, Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc n next 94 sts. Leave remaining stitches unworked.
Rnd 53: WS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 94 sts. Working in sk sts from previous rnd, dc in next 20 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 54: WS, Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Hdc in each st around. Sl st in 1st hdc to join. (114)
Rnd 55: RS, Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in 1st sc to join.  DO NOT FINISH OFF.
HANDLES of TOTE
Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 37 sts, ch 80 (being careful to not twist), sk 20 sts, sc in next 37 sts, ch 80, sk 20 sts, sl st in first 2 sc of this round. 
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 1st st. sk next st, sc in next 80 chs (being careful not to twist chain), sk next sc, sc in next 35 sts, sk next st, sc next 80 chs (being care not to twist chain), sk next st, sc next 34 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc in 1st st, sk next st, sc next 78 sts, sk next st, sc next 35 sts, sk next st, sc next 78 sts, sk next st, sc next 34 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc in 1st st, sk next st, sc next 76 sts, sk next st, sc next 35 sts, sk next st, sc next 76 sts, sk next st, sc next 34 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. Sc in 1st st, sk next st, sc next 74 sts, sk next st, sc next 35 sts, sk next st, sc next 74 sts, sk next st, sc next 34 sts. Sl st in 1st sc to join. DO NOT FINISH OFF.
EDGING: Sl st in each st around. Finish off.  To edge the insides of the handles, attach yarn with a sl st in any stitch in the handle opening, sl st in each st around. Finish off.







Monday, February 17, 2020

Meandering Paw Prints Headband FREE Crochet Pattern


Today is the day I FINALLY release the Meandering Paw Prints HEADBAND Pattern!!  Until I found this yarn from Euphoria Knits, I really hadn't been inspired to finish the pattern. I met Janessa (Owner of Euphoria Knits) at a fiber festival a few weeks back.  We got to talking about her different colorways and yarns that she carries and I simply fell in LOVE with EVERYTHING about this skein of yarn.  It was soooooo soft and the color was perfect.  I took it home and before the weekend was over I had the headband pattern written.  And the BONUS?!?!  with the one 100g skein of yarn, not only was I able to crochet this headband, I was also able to make a pair of matching fingerless mitts!!!!  YAY!!!  Now I call that a great deal!!! It's a perfect simple winter gift set!


Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!! If you are having difficulty with my pattern, the best way to contact me for help is through my Amy B Stitched Facebook page.


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  

Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B



MEANDERING PAW PRINTS HEADBAND

Find the Downloadable PDF HERE

SIZE: finished measurement 3 ¼” tall. Length determined by head size.
MATERIALS:  approx. 60 yds (1.3 oz/36 g) worsted/size 4/medium weight yarn, size 4.5 mm crochet hook, & yarn needle.
GAUGE:  Paw print patch measures 2 ¾” x 2 ¾”. Gauge is not extremely important.  If your patch turns out larger, your headband will be wider. If it is smaller, you may need to add an extra row of single crochet to the edging.
NOTES:  1) Ch 2 at the beginning of each row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
2) To help keep track of your stitches, the row stitch counts are in parenthesis at the end of each row. Chains are counted as individual stitches, except where you are instructed to “2 sc in ch 4 sp” then the entire ch sp is counted as one and you will work into the next stitch following the ch 4 sp.
3) DcCl: YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops. YO, insert hook into same st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops, YO, draw through last 3 loops.
4) Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch.


PAW PRINT MOTIF
Row 1: (RS) Ch 12, working in back ridge of chain, dc in 3rd  ch from hook and in next 8 chs. Dc-cl in last st.  (9 dc, 1 DcCl)
Row 2: (WS) Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 4 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 3 sts, DcCl in last st. (7 dc, 4 chs, 1 DcCl)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, DcCl in last st. (5dc, 2 ch 1 sp, 2 sc, 1 DcCl)
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Dc first 3 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 2 sts, DcCl in last st.   (7 dc, 2 ch 1 sp, 1 DcCl)
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 9 sts, DcCl in last st.  (9 dc, 1 DcCl)
RIBBED BAND
Next Row: Ch 1, rotate your work so that you are working down the side of the patch. Work 11 sc evenly into the ends of each row.  Your last sc will be placed into the foundation chain.  (Tip: work around the post of the sts at the ends of the rows instead of INTO the sts. The sc will appear much more even this way)
Next Row: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 1st st. Sc next 9 sts BLO, Sc last st.  (11 sc). Repeat this row until piece measures 3 inches shorter than your head measurement (my head is 22” circumference, so I will crochet until my entire piece measures 19”). Then, finish off, leaving a 12” tail.  Stitch your ends together with WS together.
EDGING
Row 1: Attach yarn into any stitch along top edge (do not attach on the paw print patch as your join may be more noticeable.  I join mine a few stitches to the left of the patch in the end of a row). Sc in each stitch and the end of each row around.  Sl st to join.
Row 2: Working in the BLO, loosely sl st around, occasionally giving a tug to make sure your stitches are not too tight as this will impede the stretch.  Finish off and weave in ends. 
Repeat edging instructions for the bottom edge. 



Find the FREE matching fingerless mitts pattern at: https://amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com/2019/06/meandering-paw-prints-fingerless-mitts.html

Saturday, January 25, 2020

Meandering Paw Prints MEGA Scarf FREE crochet pattern

 It's THAT time!!!  Time for the newest addition to the Meandering Paw Prints pattern series, the MEGA Scarf!!

The idea came to me when I was asked about scarves for larger framed people.  So I started playing around and came up with something akin to a blanket you can wear to the office!!  It has a beautiful and elegant look and so very versatile!!  It wears like a stole, but can easily wrap around your neck and head to keep you warm and toasty while out and about!  I am thinking it would be excellent for those who are in a wheelchair.  It can wrap around their shoulders and keep their legs warm at the same time without the bulk of a blanket under them.  REALLY the possibilities for this scarf are ENDLESS!!

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!! If you are having difficulty with my pattern, the best way to contact me for help is through my Amy B Stitched Facebook page.


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!

Amy B


MEANDERING PAW PRINTS MEGA SCARF

Click here to get the PD
To view a video tutorial to help with paw print placement click HERE
SIZE: 80” x 15”
MATERIALS: H/8/5.00mm hook, 18 oz size 4/worsted/medium weight yarn, yarn needle.
GAUGE:  7 dc = 2 inches, 5 v-st = 4 inches
NOTES:  
1) Ch 2 at the beginning of each row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
2) To help keep track of your stitches, the row stitch counts are in parenthesis at the end of each row. Chains are counted as individual stitches, except where you are instructed to “2 sc in ch 4 sp” then the entire ch sp is counted as one and you will work into the next stitch following the ch 4 sp. 
3) DcCl: YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops. YO, insert hook into same st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops, YO, draw through last 3 loops.
4) Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch.

 5) v-st: (Dc, ch 1, dc) in designated st.  To work a v-st into the previous row of v-sts, insert the hook into the ch 1 space between the 2 dc.  
6) The width of the scarf can be made more narrow or wider by adding or subtracting by 3’s.  My preferred width is 54 sts, but you may like 51, or 48, or 30 stitches wide.  When you eliminate or add stitches, you will do this on the v-st side of the scarf, therefore it does not affect the paw print panel.
7) If you find yourself having difficulty with this pattern, please contact me via private message on my Amy B Stitched Facebook page. It is the quickest way to reach me and I am always happy to help. Please be ready to provide pictures of your work so I can help you determine the source of your problem quicker and get you back to stitching up your project.

MEGA SCARF:
Row 1: (See NOTE #6 for width options) Ch 54, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in the next 14 chs.  Sk 1, * (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, sk 2. Repeat from * across until you have only 2 chs remaining. Sk next ch. Dc in last ch.  (16 dc, 12 v-st)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn.  V-st in each v-st across. Make sure to skip the 2nd leg of the v-st you just worked into, then, Dc next 4, ch 4, sk 2, dc next 8, DcCl in last st.  (t-ch, 12 v-st, 12 dc, 1 ch-4 sp, 1 DcCl)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 7 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 2 sts. V-st in each v-st across. Dc in top of ch 3 t-ch.  (12 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 2 sc, 12 v-st)
Row 4: ch 3, turn. V-st in each v-st across. Dc next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 7 sts, DcCl in last st. (t-ch, 12 v-st, 12 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 DcCl)
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 15 sts. V-st in each v-st across.  Dc in top of ch 3 t-ch. (16 dc, 12 v-st)
Row 6: Ch 3, turn. V-st in each v-st across.  Dc in next 14 sts. DcCl in last st. (t-ch, 12 v-st, 14 dc, 1 DcCl)
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 4 sts, ch 4, sk 2, dc in next 9 sts. V-st in each v-st across. Dc in top of ch 3 t-ch. (14 dc, 1 ch-4 sp, 12 v-st)
Row 8: Ch 3, turn. V-st in each v-st across.  Dc in next 7 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, DcCl in last st.  (t-ch, 12 v-st, 10 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 2 sc, 1 DcCl)
Row 9: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 3 sts, ch 1, sk 2, dc next st, dc last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 8 sts. V-st in each v-st across. Dc in ch 3 t-ch. (14 dc, 12 v-st, 2 ch-1 sp)
Row 10: Ch 3, turn. V-st in each v-st across. Dc next 14 sts. DcCl in last st. (t-ch, 12 v-st, 14 dc, 1 DcCl)
Row 11: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 15 sts. V-st in each v-st across. Dc in top of ch 3 t-ch. (16 dc, 12 v-st)
Repeat rows 2-11 until desired length.  I like mine to be 28 paw prints long (14 repeats). 
EDGING:
Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across, 3 sc in each corner and 2 sc in the end of each row going down the sides.  Sl st in the first sc to join.
Rnd 2: Working in the back loop only, sl st in each st around.  Finish off after last sl st.  

Saturday, November 30, 2019

Wandering Wings Migration Scarf FREE Crochet Pattern

Good Morning Stitchers!!!  This pattern has been a long time coming, but I hope it is worth your wait!!  I present to you Wandering Wings Migration Scarf!!! 

NOTE: The written pattern is here on the blog.  You will notice figure #'s with no pictures.  If you click on the link below for the dowloadable PDF, you will find the full picture tutorial pattern. 


The Wandering Wings series has been such a blessing to me!  I have worked up all of these patterns using Trigo by Omega.  It is 100% Mercized Cotton and is softer than any cotton you will ever encounter.  And it washes sooooo beautifully!!  I am in no way affiliated with Omega, I just LOVE this cotton and when I find something this good I SHARE!!!  I have only found this yarn in one location Creative Yarn Source.  They are so professional and quick to ship.  I highly recommend them! 

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!! If you are having difficulty with my pattern, the best way to contact me for help is through my Amy B Stitched Facebook page.


This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B

WANDERING WINGS MIGRATION SCARF


Step by Steps PICTURE TUTORIAL can be found in the downloadable PDF HERE


FINISHED SIZE:  41” x 61” x 41”
MATERIALS: 7 oz/200 g/590 yards Trigo by Omega (size 3/light worsted/DK) 100% Mercerized Cotton, size F/5/3.75mm crochet hooks, and yarn needle.
GAUGE:  4” x 4” x 5 ½” Work through pattern (foundation row through row 5 and then row 4 again. Then work edging) to get gauge measurements.
SPECIAL STs: Trc: yo 2 times, insert hook into designated st, yo, draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops) 3 times.
NOTE: Full Picture Tutorial is available in the downloadable PDF.  

Foundation Row: Ch 5, Trc in 5th ch from hook. (figure 1.FR)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in top of foundation row Trc.  (Trc, ch 1) 2 times in same ch as foundation Trc. One more Trc in same ch. (figure 1)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in top of 1st st. Ch 4. Trc in first sc of Row 1. (figure 2)

Row 3: Ch 5, turn. Trc in 5th ch from hook (figure 3).  Ch 1, sc in top of last trc made. (Trc, ch 1) 3 times in top of next Trc of previous row. 3 sc down side of last Trc made, one more sc in base of Trc. (Trc, ch 1) 2 times in last sc of previous row. One more Trc in same st.  (figure 3.A)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 1st st. * Ch 4, sc in top of sc of next “wing”, repeat from * across to last “wing”. Ch 4, trc in last st of previous row. (figure 4)
                                                                                                       
Row 5: Ch 5, turn. Trc in 5th ch from hook (figure 5). Working down side of Trc just made, ch 1, sc. * (Trc, ch 1) 3 times in top of next sc of previous row. 3 sc down side of last Trc made, one more in base of Trc. Repeat from * across until last “wing”. (Trc, ch 1) 2 times in last st. One more Trc in last st.  (figure 5.A)

Repeat rows 4-5 until desired size is reached ending with a row 4 (last row 4 instructions below). (I make my scarf with 35 rows of “wings”.  If you are using Trigo (the recommended yarn) and have met gauge, at 35 rows you will still have enough yarn left over to do approx. 2 more rows of wings if you wish).
LAST ROW 4: On very last row DO NOT ch 4 then Trc in the last st of the row. Instead, ch 7, then sl st in the last st (figure 6). DO NOT FINISH OFF, continue to edging instructions.

EDGING: Turn, ch 5, Trc in 5th ch from hook (figure 7), sl st in 3rd ch from sl st on final ch 7 of “last row 4” (figure 7.A). Ch 4, sl st in same st. * Ch 5, Trc in 5th ch from hook, sl st in next sc. Repeat from * across. Once you reach the corner, Ch 4, sl st in same st. Working down side of scarf, * Ch 5, Trc in 5th ch from hook, sl st in base of next “wing”. Repeat from * across to last st. Ch 4, sl st in same st. Finish off after working down the second side (figure 7.B).  The final side edging was created as you worked the body of the scarf. 


TASSLES: Make 3 tassels and stitch one to each corner of the scarf to finish. 

Friday, July 26, 2019

Reusable Produce Bags FREE Crochet Pattern


Communities across the globe have begun banning single use plastic bags. For some of my followers here, this is old news and you have been using reusable bags for some time now.  For some of you, it has just happened and you are looking at your options.  And then there are those like me, where a ban is not imposed, but you see what these are doing to our oceans (I live on the Gulf Coast) and marine life and want to make a difference. 

I have been collecting my single use plastic shopping bags for years and crocheting them up into reusable totes.  I don't have a set pattern that I use, but a formula that has evolved over the years.  Lately I had begun looking at the number of produce bags that I was throwing away and realized I could come up with something really simple and inexpensive to make.  My first trip to the grocery store using these I had a woman stop me asking where I got them.  You KNOW I had to brag that they were my own design and that I had made them myself!!!  And now it's time to share that pattern with you!!!!

Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!!


This pattern is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make finished items for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  Thank You!!! Amy B


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.

REUSABLE PRODUCE BAGS

Click HERE to get the PDF

SIZE: Small/Large and Medium

MATERIALS: Size 10 Cotton Thread (see NOTES below), size 7 Steel Hook, Larger eye needle for weaving ends, and Cord Clasp (optional)

GAUGE:  Gauge is not important

NOTES:  Really any size yarn and hook combo may be used to make these bags.  During the pattern test phase, the testing group used a variety of sizes and completed some amazing reusable produce bags just working from their stash. 

SMALL/LARGE BAGS

RND 1: ch 2, sc 6 times in 2nd ch from hook.  Sl st in 1st sc to join.
RND 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 15, sc, ch 15) in each st around.  Sl st in 1st sc to join. (12 sc, 12 ch-15 sps)
RND 3: Sl st in next 7 chs. Ch 1, sc in ch 15 sp, ch 15. * Sc in next ch 15 sp, ch 15. Repeat from * around. Sl st in 1st sc to join. (12 sc, 12 ch-15 sps)
FOR SMALL BAG RND 4-10: Repeat RND 3.
FOR LARGE BAG RND 4-15: Repeat RND 3.
EYELET RND: Ch 2, dc in same st. Ch 2, *(dc, ch 2) 4 times in next ch-15 sp. Dc next sc, ch 2.  Repeat from * around. Sl st in top of 1st dc to join.  (60 dc, 60 ch-2 sps)
LAST RND: Ch 1, sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp around.  Sl st in 1st sc to join. Finish off. (180 sc)
TIE: Ch 220. Finish off, but no need to weave in the tails on the tie.  Thread your tie onto a large eyed needle and weave it through the eyelet round 2 dc at a time.  Slip the Cord Clasp onto the free ends of the tie and cinch bag closed. If you choose to not use the cord clasp, simply cinch the bag closed and secure the ties.  Knot the ends of the tie together. Clip threads at the ends of the tie short. 

MEDIUM BAG

RND 1: Ch 6, Trc in 6th ch from hook, ch 1.  (Trc, ch 1) 10 more times. Sl st in 5th ch of beg ch 6 to join. (12 trc, 12 ch-1 sp)
RND 2: Ch 1, sc. * Ch 9, sc in next ch sp, ch 9, sc in top of next trc.  Repeat from * around. Sl st in 1st sc to join. (24 ch-9 sps)
RND 3-15: Sl st in next 4 chs, ch 1. * Sc in ch-9 sp, ch 9. Repeat from * around. Sl st in first sc to join. (24 ch 9 sps)
RND 16 EYELET RND: Ch 2, dc in join, ch 2. * (Dc, ch 2) 2 times in ch 9 sp, (dc, ch 2) in next sc. Repeat from * around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (72 dc, 72 ch-2 sps)
RND 17: Ch 1, sc in first st. * 2 sc in each ch 2 sp, sc in each dc.  Repeat from * around.  Sl st in top of first sc to join. Finish off.  (216 sc)
TIE: Ch 220. Finish off, but no need to weave in the tails on the tie.  Thread your tie onto a large eyed needle and weave it through the eyelet round 2 dc at a time.  Slip the Cord Clasp onto the free ends of the tie and cinch bag closed. If you choose to not use the cord clasp, simply cinch the bag closed and secure the ties.  Knot the ends of the tie together. Clip threads at the ends of the tie short. 


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B

Sunday, June 2, 2019

MEANDERING PAW PRINTS Fingerless Mitts FREE Crochet Pattern


The pattern for Meandering Paw Prints Fingerless Mitts has been a long time coming!!  I featured them in the Amy B Stitched VIP Boutique over on Facebook and they sold out every single time!!  They will make a great addition to your craft sale table this winter!!

This is an Original Design by Amy B Stitched. Feel free to make for profit, but remember to give credit to me, and link back to my blog www.amysastitchatatime.blogspot.com  
Thank You!!! Amy B


Remember....I am a human and sometimes make mistakes!!  If you find an error with my pattern, please let me know in the comment section and I will try to correct it as soon as possible!!! If you are having difficulty with my pattern, the best way to contact me for help is through my Amy B Stitched Facebook page.


A lot of hard work goes into writing patterns.  Please feel free to share the link, but do not copy and distribute this pattern by any other means.


If you like getting my FREE patterns and don't want to miss out on any future ones, you can subscribe to my blog and have all of my new entries delivered straight to your email inbox! Just type your email address into the field on the right hand column under the heading "follow by email" and click submit.  Be sure to check your email (sometimes it will end up in your junk/spam folder) and follow the verification steps for your subscription to be complete!!

Blessings!!!
Amy B

MPP Fingerless Mitts

 


SIZE: Small (youth or small woman), Medium (average woman), & Large (large woman, average man)
MATERIALS: Size G/6/4.25mm crochet hook, worsted weight/medium/size 4 yarn
GAUGE:  First 7 rows of Wrist Cuff Ribbing = 2 ½ inches wide x 2 inches tall.  
STITCHES/TERMS USED:
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet 
St(s) – stitch(es) 
WS – wrong side
BLO – back loop only
Sl st – slip stitch 
Dc – double crochet 
Sk – skip 
Dc cl – double crochet cluster 
Sc dec – single crochet decrease 

NOTES:
1)  Ch 2 at the beginning of each row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
2)  To help keep track of your stitches, the row stitch counts are in parenthesis at the end of each row. Chains are counted as individual stitches, except where you are instructed to “2 sc in ch 4 sp” then the entire ch sp is counted as one and you will work into the next stitch following the ch 4 sp. 
3)  Dc cl: YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops. YO, insert hook into same st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops, YO, draw through last 3 loops.
4)  Dc in last sk st: Insert the hook into the skipped stitch indicated and continue with your dc in the same manner as the other dc. This binds the two sts together into a cross stitch. see following images.





WRIST CUFF RIBBING: ALL SIZES
Ch 11, sc in the back loop of 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (10 sc)
Row 2:  WS Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, sc in the BLO of the next 8 sts, sc in last st.  
Repeat Row 2 until you have 24 rows for Small, 28 rows for Medium, 32 rows for Large. DO NOT FINISH OFF. Bring first row and last row WS together to form the cuff (this will be the side you just finished, so once you put the ends together you will need to turn your work before you continue), sl st first st together, working into the two loops in the center, slst next 8 sts, going through all loops sl st last st together.  DO NOT FINISH OFF, continue to Hand portion of pattern.

RIGHT HAND: (SM and MED)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc around the cuff, placing one sc in the end of each row. Sl st in first sc to join. (24, 28)
Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join.  (24, 28)
Rows 4-5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around.  DO NOT JOIN. (24, 28)
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 6 (8) sts, ch 4, sk 2 sts, dc in next 15 (17) sts. Dc cl in last st.
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 14 (16) sts. Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 3 (5). Dc cl in last st.  
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 5 (7) sts. Ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 14 (16) sts. Dc cl in last st. 
Row 9-10: Ch 1, turn.  Sc in each st across. At the end of Row 10 sl st in the first sc to join.  
FOR SMALL Rnds 11-13: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around.  Sl st in first sc to join. Continue to last rnd. 
FOR MEDIUM Rnds 11-15: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join. Continue to last rnd.
Last Rnd both sizes: DO NOT TURN. Sl st in each st around. Finish off. Continue to the THUMB GUSSET instructions at the end of the pattern.  It works for all sizes, left or right.

RIGHT HAND: (LARGE)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc around the cuff, placing one sc in the end of each row. Sl st in first sc to join. (32)
Rnd 2-5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join. (32)
Rows 6-7:  Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around.  DO NOT JOIN.  
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 10 sts, ch 4, sk 2 sts, dc in next 19 sts. Dc cl in last st.
Row 9: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 18 sts. Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 7. Dc cl in last st.  
Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 9 sts. Ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 18 sts. Dc cl in last st.
Rows 11-12: Ch 1, turn.  Sc in each st across. At the end of Row 12 sl st in the first sc to join. (32)
Rnds 13-17: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join.
Last Rnd: Sl st in each st around. Finish off.  Continue to the THUMB GUSSET instructions at the end of the pattern.  It works for all sizes, left or right.

LEFT HAND: (SM and MED)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc around the cuff, placing one sc in the end of each row. Sl st in first sc to join. (24, 28)
Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join.  (24, 28)
Rows 4-5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around.  DO NOT JOIN. (24, 28)
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 16 (18) sts, ch 4, sk 2 sts, dc in next 5 (7) sts. Dc cl in last st.
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 4 (6) sts. Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 13 (15). Dc cl in last st.  
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 15 (17) sts. Ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 4 (6) sts. Dc cl in last st. 
Row 9-10: Ch 1, turn.  Sc in each st across. At the end of Row 10 sl st in the first sc to join.  
FOR SMALL Rnds 11-13: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around.  Sl st in first sc to join. Continue to last rnd.
FOR MEDIUM Rnds 11-15: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join. Continue to last rnd.
Last Rnd both sizes: DO NOT TURN. Sl st in each st around. Finish off. Continue to the THUMB GUSSET instructions at the end of the pattern.  It works for all sizes, left or right.

LEFT HAND: (LARGE)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc around the cuff, placing one sc in the end of each row. Sl st in first sc to join. (32)
Rnd 2-5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join. (32)
Rows 6-7:  Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around.  DO NOT JOIN.  (32)
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 20 sts, ch 4, sk 2 sts, dc in next 9 sts. Dc cl in last st.
Row 9: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 8 sts. Ch 1, sk 1, dc next st, 2 sc in ch 4 sp, dc next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc next 17. Dc cl in last st.  
Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 19 sts. Ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc next st, dc in last sk st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 8 sts. Dc cl in last st.
Rows 11-12: Ch 1, turn.  Sc in each st across. At the end of Row 12 sl st in the first sc to join. (32)
Rnds 13-17: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc to join.

Last Rnd: Sl st in each st around. Finish off.  Continue to the THUMB GUSSET instructions at the end of the pattern.  It works for all sizes, left or right.

THUMB GUSSETT:  ALL SIZES, RIGHT & LEFT HANDS
Rnd 1: Join yarn with a sl st in the top row of the opening for the thumb.  Sc 9 sts evenly down the side facing you. Next, work a sc dec in the last row and bottom of opening. Sc 9 sts evenly up the other side of the opening. Sc dec in the last row and top of opening.  You should have 20 sts around. DO NOT JOIN.
Rnd 2: Work (sc dec, sc) around, ending with a sc dec. DO NOT JOIN. (13)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. DO NOT JOIN. (13)
Rnd 4: Sl st in each st around. Finish off.